Knowledge Channel in No Man's Land

“No man’s land and where no one dared to tread” is how the school superintendent described Midsayap, North Cotabato last Nov 9 during the turnover ceremony of Knowledge Channel Foundation Inc.’s (KCFI) eTV facilities to San Isidro Elementary School. This is the 150th school or the final installation of KCFI’s 3-year USAID-assisted program called Television Education for the Advancement of Muslim Mindanao or TEAM-Mindanao for short. Some 78,529 students or so located in the most remote and isolated areas of Mindanao are now getting the quality education they rightfully deserve.

I am quite sad thoug that the project has ended. I heard that USAID did not include KCFI in its Phase Two leg.

I’ve been to the remote remotest towns in Mindanao because of TEAM-M; particularly in the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao (ARMM) which is traditionally known as the most volatile area in the country. ARMM was created in 1990 and covers Sulu, Tawi-Tawi, Maguindanao, Lanao del Sur, Basilan and Marawi City. It is predominantly Muslim and unfortunately, the most imporverished region in the country, .

Despite its notoriety, I find ARMM quite peaceful its people generous and in fact, I must say ‘corrupton-free’. I braved traversing the region’s end-to-end five times even at night. Compared to Luzon, the roads are well paved and well maintained with concrete bridges connecting the rivers. The drive is quite pleasant although the military checkpoints every few kilometers can be quite intimidating.. But the view is something else - -lush green countryside, rolling mountain range, the colorful garb of the various townsfolk, the fruit stands….


I'm filled with nostalgia with this project ending. My first visit was in the very first installation in Paglas, Maguindanao three years ago, where Datu Toto Paglas and his sister Bai Nora hosted us in their family’s banana plantation (note(called La Frutera Banana Plantation, a 1,100 hectare farm of which Cavendish bananas are exported under the Chiquita, Unifrutti, Consol and Chico brands). Then to the Southernmost tip of the Philipines, Tawi Tawi on November 2005 where we had no choice but to take the navy boat accompanied by the marines to Languyan Island and from there be ferried by the only vehicle on the island (a dump truck) to the site.. And last week to witness the last installation in Cotabato.

Aside from providing 150 schools with ETV (11 of which are high schools), the TEAM-M project produced "Salam" a 10-video peace education module and also "Negosyo Ko, Asenso ko" a 10-video livelihood module for out-of-school youths. It has improved teaching and learning capacities especially in the areas of Math, Science and English. I just hope that USAID's Phase Two can dare go to the other remote areas and cover more schools in the region.

Rosh Hashanah in Israel

"Hagsame!" exclaimed a familiar voice onstage and I realized it was Jamie Green (in photo) of the Living Kabbalah System or referred to as "LKS" Level 1. His voice guided me in my first dip into Kabbalah six months ago.. and now, I find myself in Israel celebrating Rosh Hashanah (New Year) with 3000 students from all over the world.
This is the first of everything for me - my first participation in a Kabbalah event, first time to be face-to-face with its founders - Rav Berg, his wife Karen, their sons Michael and Yehuda; first time to do mikveh; first time to be in Israel and the first time for the Kabbalah Center to have an Asian contingent- this is 12 of us from the Philippines.
I didn't know what to expect. Kabbalah is being touted not as a religion but more of a spiritual technology, as a self help guide towards lasting fulfillment using ancient teachings.
What drew me to attend this event was when David Ghyam, the 23-year old L.A.-based teacher in one of his lectures in the Philippines, said that Rosh Hashana is an opportunity "to wipe the slate clean"; to correct not only the negative actions of the last 12 months but also issues from past lives. He said that this is made possible through the confluence of several powerful forces during this specific period in time and for this year its from Sept 12 to 15.
There was indeed some kind of powerful force present. I was in tears while singing and clapping, I was moved by the lectures, I felt some tingling sensation in my fingers and burning sensation in my ears. I just let go and was open to everything including the blowing of the shofar, the scanning of armaic letters and also in fact going to the ocean every morning (except on Shabbat) to do mikveh. This involves immersing the entire body into the water while doing specific meditations as a form of healing.
The bottomline learning during the event is to treat everyone with human dignity; to put others before ourselves which is actually the basic tenet of any religion which can be referred to as the golden rule “do unto others what you want others to do unto you” or even ‘love thy neighbor’.
The whole process involves changing of consciousness. Michael Berg said in his lecture the last day that “the way we view something changes the way it occurs.” I guess this is what is meant by wiping the slate clean. Berg said that, where consciousness is, is where our history is, and thereby we can transform retroactively today.
Kabbalah is not an easy task. It requires constant study to learn the process to become better. Kabbalah encourages to love without reason (unconditional love), to go beyond conflicts (unity), to find joy and happiness in what has already been given (appreciation), resist the desire to react to instinctive impulses (reaction) and to accept responsibility for own actions (accountability).
The world operates on a cause and effect. Whatever happens may be the result of a negative action that we have done a moment ago, yesterday, a week before, last year or even previous lifetimes. In a nutshell, another familiar voice from LKS Level 2 Michael Moscowitz sums up the best advice to resist reacting “when in doubt, shut up!”

Tessa's Day 1 on Celebrity Duet

"All for charity!" says Tessa Valdes who is one of the eight celebrities in the Philippine version of Celebrity Duet. This is a reality TV show combining celebrities of different backgrounds with professional singers and the elimination round is every Saturday. The show was created last year in the United States by Simon Crowell of the Americal Idol fame. I guess the local network got the franchise to air here.
Tessa always amazes me with the things she gets into – be it in triathalon, flamenco, feung sheui, breast feeding advocacy, etc – and mind you, she manages to excel all the time! Lets see how she fares with this new singing adventure! For the pilot last Aug 11, she sang Gwen Stefani's "My Sweet Escape" with pinoy RNB Kyl. Watch her by double clicking start button below and see why the three judges were delighted and said "you are enjoying yourself" and "you are the song!" If she wins, the 1-million prize money has already been earmarked to go to the Assumpion mission schools, the Auxillary Missionaries of Assumpiton, Street Pals for street kids, and the 81 foundation for day care. The first elimination round is this Aug 18, so vote now!!To vote send SMS "Duets Tessa" to 367 (Smart/TalkNText) and 2344 (Globle/Sun/Touch Mobile).

Clark Cruz jams w Kitchie Nadal

Soon to be guitar legend, my 13-year old nephew, with indie rocker/songwriter Kitchie Nadal singing her 2004 hit "Bulong". This was taken with my Nokia N73 during the birthday of my 8-year old nephew on July 28. He's only in 7th grade student in La Salle and already knows what he wants to take up in College - Music at UC Berkeley.
check out his dexterity at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTTETWDHvvA&mode=related&search=">

Road Trip to Pampanga's Best (food!!)

With the global warming coming true to form, there's no longer a wet season here in the Philippines. It should be pouring by now but the weather is hot and sunny and good to take a road trip up North and experience the best of Pampanga, the gastronomical delights of the province.
We headed off to “Abe’s Farm” in Pampanga. It is located at the foot of Mt. Arayat, a 3,000-ft inactive volcano. Some friends dared to climb the mountain under the sweltering heat and left Manila at 5am. Its a good way to work up an apetite though and dip in the hot springs. While moi, decided to drive with Clang late in the afternoon to make it in time for dinner.
The farm is a private resthouse of Larry Cruz, famously known as “LJC” of the LJC restaurant chain. According to Evita (Quiambao), this is the first time he opened his farm to ‘non-friends’. He named the farm after his bon vivant and gastronome father Emilio Aguilar "Abe" Cruz (1915-1991).
The dinner was set up in the lower garden, surrounded by three ifugao houses. The blue and green colors reminded me of Provence. Must be from the father's influence since he was also the first pinoy francophile, being the UNSESCO ambassador based in Paris back in the 1970s.
I was expecting something more exotic and exciting dishes like betute (frog), kamaru (mole crickets) or burong talangka (crablets). We were served instead the usual fare – for starters, sisig (Pampanga after all is where Sisig was born!), crispy shrimps and fermented shrimp buro wrapped in mustard leaves.; then fiddlehead fern pako salad, crispy pata, a yummy chicken dish (everybody’s favorite), seafood kare kare and a stewed vegetabled dish; for desert, we had maja blanca, suman in sweet condensed milk and fresh fruits. The cost is P1750 per person for the meal (plus tip). Drinks were water and buko juice. Glen brought the red and white wine.
Another must-EAT reco in Pampanga is Claude Tayag’s Bale Dutung in Angeles City. I’ve been there twice and I assure you its worth the trip. Claude is truly a renaissance man - he is an artist/scupltor, writer and with his resto, he has proven that he can also cook! The place is actually his private home, gallery and studio located inside a subdivision. His wife Mary Ann manages the place and is in charge of setting up lunches and retailing “Claude 9” products –bottled products such as buro, taba ng talangka (crab fat), hot sauce, etc..
Lunch costs P1800 per head and is served buffet style (minimum of 12 persons). The dining area is filled with Claude’s sculptural furniture. His menu is more nouvelle cuisine. For appetizers, a platter of Kapampangan sushi, taba ng talangka (crab fat), fried catfish with fermented rice and shrimps, pindang balaw-balaw (carabeef meet);. The main course is quite a spread : sari-saring pruts (seasonal fruits in a light Thai dressing), sorbets sa dayap and champagne (sherbet), pako salad, lumpiang ubod, seafood kare-kare, 4-way lechon (i.e. crispy skin, fried lechon with soft tortilla, inihaw, sinigang; chiken wrapped in banana leaf and inasal pugo quail egg with mushrooms; and for desert his signature dish called ‘paradiso’ (macapuno, ube and kamote balls with cream of carabao’s milk). Free flowing water, soft drinks, buko juice, beer and wine.
Both places need prior reservations. Book in advance! Contact Merle (LJC) at 0917 899-7731 and Mary Ann (Claude) at (045) 888-5163. Happy road trip!!

Phenomena of Pheromones

“You’ve been feasted on!” exclaimed Dra Roberto Romero, a leading clinical dermatologist in the Philippines and the third doctor I’ve seen in two weeks to treat the insect bites all over my body. The bites have not subsided since my 3-day detox weekend stint at Tiaong, Quezon two weeks ago and in fact, the bites have spread on my face and the ones on my arm turned black and blue.

We were a total of four patients at the Philippine Breast Center Network’s “Tiaong Breast Haven” (photo). Unfortunately, I was the only one bitten! Dr. Romero refers to my case as the phenomena of the pheromones. She said that I emit a particular scent that attracted the arthropods of Tiaong. They left their mark (saliva, even eggs) on my skin. The lumps, itchiness, swelling manifested 2 to 3 days after their sting. We're talking about an anthropod party, lots of anthropods, because my arms, chest, back, legs and face are ridden with bites.

At first I thought I had the ‘shingles’ because it was spreading all over my body. I went to see the first doctor and she said it was an allergic reaction and injected each bite with steroids and prescribed antihistamines (cost me an arm and a leg!). The second doctor also diagnosed allergy and again injected each bite and prescribed oral steroids.

Dr. Romero’s advice was simply to “suffer” and not go back to Tiaong where the arthropods there love my scent. The next bite she said could be deadly! She prescribed a cortisone ointment and to avoid foods that will cause my bites to flare up. My condition will last for another 6 to 8 weeks and meantime I’m wearing long sleeves to cover the bites. Otherwise, will scare some people because it looks like chicken pox marks!

My scent is different from anybody else and I hope this doesn’t deter anyone from going to Tiaong Breast Haven, a two-hour drive from Manila. Danny Meneses set-up the facility as an “alternative venue for empowering women afflicted with the disease - to confront, overcome and live with breast cancer with full honor and dignity.” His wife Rosa who passed away in September 2000, survived 43 months without chemotherapy or radiation. Danny’s protocol is quite intensive and based on the natural approaches of Rudolf Breuss, Max Gerson and Sat Dharam Kaur. This consists of fasting, raw vegetable juice and narra and turmeric tea , and twice a day coffee enema. The therapy is to remove the metabolic waste from the body, free the cells membranes from protein build-up and provide the body with the necessary essential vitamins and minerals while fasting. The coffee enema eliminates estrogen by-products, environmental estrogens and toxins from the colon and the liver. For more info, contact Danny at pbcn@iname.com or visit www.pbcn.org.

Weekend bout with Sacroiliac

Just sharing my wknd bout with sacroiliac dysfunction, low back pain (midline). Man, it was painful to walk or drive. I initially felt pain on my lower back brewing last Friday and the next day (Saturday), after my meeting in the afternoon, headed straight to the traditional chinese wellness center recommended by Zenaida Seva at Ortigas Center called Beijing Tong Reng Tang or TRT (tel# 638-4382), touted as the most authentic herbal pharmacy in China which is now in Manila.
A Dr. Wang diagnosed me by checking my pulse and tongue and assured me that pain will "go away." The treatment started with ox-horn scrubbing (guasha), cupping (ventosa) and then acupuncture with electric current and heat. He then prescribed an assortment of chinese herbs which was cooked in TRT and packed in an airtight plastic pouch (total of 14 pouches); and also prescribed a marble-size medicine called 'Tongren Dahuoluo Dan' to be swallowed whole. The protocol to be taken twice a day was to "expel wind-evil and relax the tendons" and to remove "pains in the limbs and trunk... stiffness of musles and joints, having difficulty getting about."
The first treatment somehow alleviated my lower back pain but it transferred to my right leg, radiating from my groin down my knees to my toes and it was very very painful to drive. So the next day, went back for another treatment. This time, Dr. Wang did acupressure on my back and then addressed the right leg area (groin-knee-toes) with acupuncture and electric current. Believe it or not, the pain instantly disappeared. But he said my lower back may take some time and recommended to have it x-rayed.
I trotted to Medical City right away to have my back checked and x-rayed. The resident said I had degenerative bone (L1-L2) and my problem is just muscular-skeletal and presciibed myonal (muslce relaxant), arcoxia (pain reliver) and of all things Voltaren (!!!) which has been taken off the shelf by FDA because it may cause serious cardio vascular side effects, such as MI or stroke, which may result in hospitalization and even death.
Unfortunately, this is my second misdiagnosis at the Medical City ER department. First time was 2001 when the ER doctor described my stomach pain condition as gastroenteritis and 3 days later, I was opened up for acute apendicitis at MMC. I showed my x-ray to chriopracter Dr. Sonny Uy last Monday who said that the xray indicated sacroiliac and did the usual cracking of bones (aligned my hips, etc). He said that I twisted my hips and need to be bedridden to avoid putting weight on my hips - i.e. no sitting, walking or diving.
The chinese herbs of TRT helped put me to sleep most of yesterday. So, now I'm okay (hopefully) and need one more adjustment with Dr. Uy.
According to Dr. Michael Amaral of back.com, this ailment typically strikes 30s or 40s women who has had children. "It is thought that the relaxation of the sacroiliac ligaments necessary for childbirth does not fully reverse, and that a subsequent minor trauma may sublux (partially dislocate) the joint and cause pain." I'm more of the "younger women may develop sacroiliac problems as a result of sport or other injuries. The condition also occurs in men, but less frequently and usually from more severe injuries, often involving lifting while the trunk is in torsion." Ha ha... I don't know how Liana can bear the pain though. She has a similar problem but I guess more acute.

Salam Malaykum from Egypt

Bettina, Clang, Rae and moi at King Tut's tomb

That's Bettina Go, Clang Garcia, Raeanna Cranbourne and moi outside the tomb of King Tut in Luxor's Valley of the Kings, a vast funerary complex at the West Bank. We finally made it after much visa hullabaloo in Manila. Thanks to Kim Harrington who not only helped us get our 'visa upon arrival' but also hosted us at her place in the hippest Cairo-hood in Zamalek, helped us with our tours and even got us an affable taxi driver, Abdul Amin!

We've seen most of Egypt in a week. First stop was Cairo's Citadel (1176) and An-Nasir Mohammed mosque (1318). It wasn't hazy that day and got a clear view of Giza's pyramids from the terrace. From the citadel, we drove through traffic (the city has 15 million population) to visit one of the seven wonders of the world - the pyramids! There are three structures: the Great Pyramid of Khufu (2750 BC) at 146m high, his son's called Khafre (136m) and his wife's Mankaure (62m). It is indeed amazing to be at the foot of a monstrous mountain life-like size tomb and it makes me wonder if there is any truth to its extra teresstial origin.

the Red Sea

The next day we flew East to Hurgada and drove down the coast to dive the Red Sea. It was a toss up with Sharm el-Sheikh but we were warned that it was very crowded and most of the corals are damaged so we opted for Marsa Alam, a newly built city with relatively less divers. Brrr! It was freezing at 22 degrees! I felt like a 'Michelin' man in a 5mm full suit plus a 5mm shortie! The dive operator at our hotel (Iberotel), Coraya Divers was run by Germans. They were very organized. I'm referred to #164 - for my locker box number, gear, etc. It was quite expensive at 20 euros for full gear rental per day (without computer) and 30 euros per dive (its an extra 3 euros for the guide). The best dive sites require a full day boat trip to "Elephinstone' and "Sataya".

We did another dive (in Sha'ab Marsa Alam) the next day before heading out to Safaga to cross the Red Sea mountains with a police convoy to Luxor. I've never felt secured with checkpoints every 500 meters or so and a police escort. I guess after the bombing incident at Sinai in 2005, the government is trying to protect its US$6B tourism industry. The drive took almost five hours, 2 hours to Safaga and 3 hours to Luxor.

At Luxor, we went first to the West Bank's Colossi of Memnon where we were welcomed by a pair of massive statues (18m high). Then drove to Deir al-Bahri to climb the steps up to visit the mortiuary complex of the first female 'male' pharoah, Queen Hapsheshut (very difficult to pronounce, just say hot chiken soup). Its a limestone monument carved out of a mountain! First sign of vandalism here with coptic graffiti and also where her stepson Tuthmosis III scratched out her face. Then drove to the Valley of the Kings to visit the tombs of Rameses I, IV and VI. There are 700 tombs and only 15 tombs are open for public viewing. Our ticket allowed us to visit 3 tombs. The highlight here would be the colorful painted walls depicting the life of the pharaoh, scenes to help guide his journey through his afterlife, heiroglyphics and the sacrophogaus at the end of the tomb (the contents - mummy, gold masks, etc - are at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo).

Luxor

ancient hieroglyphs

After, we drove through the Tomb of the Nobles and stopped at Deir al-Medina named after a coptic temple built by christian monks. Here we visited two tombs of the workers where for 5-20 egyptian pounds, the guards allowed us to take photos! It was extremely hot in Luxor at 40 degrees, so we decided to break for lunch at a resto along the Nile River. After lunch, we spent the whole afternoon in the temple complex of Karnak and Luxor and in the evening, did the Sound and Light show. (note: we bought tickets through our travel agent only to find out its cheaper and easier to do it on your own).

at the foot of the Step Pyramid of Zoser

After Luxor, we flew back to Cairo and Abdul picked us up and drove straight to Saqqara, a huge cemetery of ancient Memphis where the oldest pyramid is located called Step Pyramid of Zoser. For 5 pounds, we were able to take photos inside the tombs. After visiting the pyramids and the newly built museum, we drove 10 kms away to Dashur where we climbed the 125 steep stone steps of the Red Pyramid and down the 63m long claustrophic passageway down the tomb.

Dashur

The next day Kim drove us to Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great. We walked down the Corniche to Bibliotheca Alexandrina, designed by Norwegian architect Snøhetta, it houses millions of books, 3 museums and a planetarium. Then a seafood feast down at the seafood market and walked down to Fort Qaitbey (1480 AD). Back in Zamalek, we were too exhausted to eat out and decided to watch DVD of "The Yacoubian Building", film adapted from Alaa El Aswany's novel.

The next day, Kim booked us to Wadi El-Hatin (western dessert) on a 4WD with driver Moustafa and his side kick Mohamed, to visit the UNESCO world heritage site for the first recorded fossilised skeletons of primitive whales. The site used to be a vast ocean some 35 million years ago. The topography is likened to the Grand Canyon in the United States. We had a picnic lunch at the nearby dessert Waddi Rayyan. Then before heading back to Cairo, a stopover at Tunis a plush domain-secondaire type village to view pottery. (note: town not recorded in Lonely Planet).

A sea in the desert between 250 million and 35 million years ago

For our last night in Egypt, Kim took us to a walking tour of Islamic Cairo. Our first stop was to a bazaar where locals go to (opposite Khan al-Khalili) and then crossed the street to the famous touristy Khan and visited several shops including the famous Fishawi's Coffeehouse. The nobel peace prize author Nagib Mafouz (Cairo Trilogy) grew up in this neighborhood in Sharia al-Gamaliyya.

I enjoyed my trip and luckily, despite warnings by friends, we didn't get harrassed at all by street hawkers or for 'baksheesh' (tips). The magic word is 'la' shukran' which means "no thank you". Also most earn pathetic monthly salaries of 40-50 pounds (tomb guards) or 78 pounds (military solider). That's why they end up harrassing toursits for tips. I'm quite tolerant and in fact, ended giving tips to everybody!

Pattabi Jois: "Are you Married?"

with Guruji, Pattabi Jois

Last Sunday was the last conference with Guruji and surprisingly, his favorite question to everyone is "are you married?". 

It seems that in the last three conferences marriage has been his favorite topic. He kept talking about marriage, bramacharaya and ramachari and at great length. I guess it is an important part of yoga - to be in a relationship.... to know yourself better through a partner....So at the end of the conference, when we were milling around the shala saying goodbye to everyone, one guy (Anguis) went down on his knees and proposed to me! Maybe if Liana and I stayed longer, we'd be married! As a side note - Guruji has officiated several weddings at the shala. 

with Sharath

Yesterday was also our last led this time with Sharath. It was intense. I placed my mat at the corner of the room before the office entrance (warmest spot, no draft) and there was a man seated in the office watching the whole primary led. I thought it was the brother of Guruji. And guess what, lo and behold - it was LINO MIELE!! I should have brought my book for him to sign.

Looking back, so many things have happened in a month's time at Mysore. Physically, I've toned down. My knee still hurts so I warm up by doing 3-4x ardha baddha-related poses before fully folding my leg up. Liana mentioned that I have 'yoga'arms already and told her its from all the chaturangas!

Note on pains - Guruji said yesterday that if you can hold an asana for at least 3 hours without any pain, then you're ready for meditation/pranayama. The energy generated through meditation would be intense that your body/mind should be able hold it.

So many more to tell - the transformations of people at mysore, the energy, etc... But most memorable will be Guruji and his favorite advise 'all is coming.. practice practice practice.."

Mysore recommendations: Intuitive healing with Francis Rooney (francisroo@yahoo.com), Ayurvedic massage and castor oil treatment with Harini of the 3 sisters +91821-252-2788, Thai massage with Enzo, Color Meditation with Akhilanka (akhil_colours@yahoo.com.sg), sanskrit/chanting/sutra classes with Lakshmish +91-9900142135

Goa break and 'openings'

Goa was a good break - sun, saltwater, beach and skin exposure! We're all clad up in Mysore so its great to be in tank tops in this sweltering heat. Our travel agent booked us at a very touristy place though up North called Calangute. We should've listened to Gai who warned us that Goa is huge and recommended Palolem beach!

The province is divided into three areas - the North, Central and South. It would take more than a week to explore the beaches. Since Goa was a Portugues colony and half the population are Catholics, we opted to visit the churhces (also we're temple-fatigued already). Interesting to note that the body of St. Francis de Asisi is in the Basilica in Old Goa.

Most of the Yogis at Mysore go to either Purple Valley (South) or to Vagator (North). In Vagator, they stay at a vegan resort called "Beam me Up". We went there for dinner last Fri night and enjoyed quattro formagi pizza. Actually, our trip to Goa was a culinary delight since we took a break and indulged mostly in non-Indian fare.

Now we're back in Mysore. We have a WEEK left. My knee is acting up again. Maybe for being crammed up in the car in Goa and the 3-hour transfer to the airport (travel time to Mysore to Bangalore). Most of the yoga students here refer to aches and pains as 'openings'. Even the 'experts' experience pain and do some kind of therapy. It seems like there is a thriving therapeutic or healing business here - from intuitive healer (Francis), rolfer (Ken), traditional thai massage (Enzo), chiropractor, accupuncture (Sean), ayurveda (dr Kumar), wholistic (dr Jag). Dr. Jag is half the year in Mysore and the other half in Brunei. Fellow Philippine-yogini Joelle Goudsmit is currently apprenticing with him.

First Conference and Drop Back with Pattabi Jois

We had our first conference yesterday with Guruji. The conference is scheduled on Sundays at 4:30pm. The first one was canceled since he went out of town. The second one last Sunday was canceled because of the distribution of "i.d." cards. So, yesterday was the first one for the year.

We marched to the Shala at 4pm and it was already PACKED. The shala was noisy with everyone talking. But as soon as Guruji entered, it instantly quieted down.

Someone said that this is the first time he saw Guruji so talkative. It brought him back to the 1980s where Guruji was in a lecture mode. Just imagine Guruji non-stop talking for one hour! He kept quoting from Pantajali, Pradipika, etc. and laughing too.

Norwegian yoga instructor Alex Medin (teaches at Pure Yoga HKG) opened the conference by asking if one can achieve yama and niyamas thru asanas. Guruji said "only asana when we practice asanas". Sharath would butt in also. Note that his sister, who teaches in Bangalore, was also onstage about 3 feet away from Sharath.

After the conference, we saw Guruji in his office and asked his permission to take his photo. He said that he'll just run upstairs and be back in 10-mins. Mita (from Los Angeles) doubted that he'd come back since he locked the room and turned off the lights in his office. Liana said that he'll be back but since he's 92, not sure if he'll remember. So, we asked Alex and he said that Guruji practices Satya. And lo and behold, we saw him coming down the stairs and posed for us.

Well, today, he was the one who did my drop back. All of them - Manju, Saraswati, Guruji - have different styles. It was disaster for me because all I could hear was "wat wat wat" which meant "walk". I figured it out after. His energy was something else. I had to HUG him after and non stop thanking him.

Saraswati: Ladies holiday and knee remedy

with Saraswati

I actually practiced on my second day of my period and casually mentioned to Shruti (Sharath’s wife) while thanking her for helping me out that my stiffness was due to my condition. She was stupefied and told me not to come to the Shala during ‘ladies holiday’. That’s what they call women who have their monthly period.

Call me insensitive or thoughtless, but I assumed it was okay to practice for as long as I don’t do inversions. I was told that Guruji, a Brahmin, considers menstruation as a purification process where toxins are released from the body and thus, ‘dirty’ or unclean. He wouldn’t even touch students who have periods. I think this is an exaggeration though. I had flashbacks though of signs at the entrance of the temples in Rajastan (and in Bali). In Jasailmer, it says "Entrance of ladies during monthly course period is strictly prohibited they are requested to maintain the sanctity of the temple." So I guess its the same with the Shala, to treat it as a sacred place for ashtanga devotees.

Good news though to women, in case you don’t know - Sally Griffyn and Michaela Clarke wrote in their “Ashtanga for Women” book that with regular practice (six times a week), the period should become more efficient – short and heavy, lasting two or three days and over time, may coincide with the full or new moon. I have endometriosis and mine got more efficient - two days and heavier.

So on my third day (yesterday), I took the ‘day off ‘and went with Joelle to Jag Therapy to have my knee checked. The Jag Therapy Center is 7-8km away from Gokulam. It is run by Sri K.R.I. Jagadish, a renowned holistic doctor and author of several books including “Health, Herbs & Harmony Nature’s Way”. He practices half the year in Mysore and half the year in Brunei for the Sultan. Registration costs Rs50 and free for succeeding visits. There's a donation box though by the reception. He applied accupressure on my knee, hips and back. He also checked my eyes and I found out from him that I don’t have asthma; rather I am allergic to bananas, raw apples, milk and GLUTEN. (I have to say goodbye to my favs - chappati, nan and chai).

Sanskrit teacher Lakshimi

Well... not sure if he actually fixed my knee because today at Led class, I almost screamed in pain while doing ardha baddha padmottansana. Man, it hurts. My left is okay its just the right knee. Liana says it might be torn miniscus. During puja, after kissing/hugging Guruji, I told him about my predicament. He recommended to apply hot coconut oil mixed with lemon on it before practice and an hour before going to bed. I think I was the only one in the queue who asked him a question today.

I saw Saraswati today in the salon and she also recommended the hot coconut oil remedy. She also mentioned that the weather is changing and may affect my joints. Lakshimi, my sanskrit teacher recommended mixing Ghee with rice to increase flexibility. I have two weeks left in Mysore and hopefully, with all these recos, my knee will be alright. (Note Saraswati's website: http://www.saraswatiashtanga.com/saraswati.html)

Student #151 @ AYRI

Yesterday afternoon we were asked to go to the shala to collect our i.d. cards and to determine what time we should practice. Sharath organized the distribution of the cards per batch depending on the day of registration. This is, before december, before AYRI's mid-dec holiday break, Dec 30, Jan 1, Jan 2 and so on... This is the first time AYRI instituted an i.d. system. We have to bring and present the i.d. when we come to practice.

Those who registered way back come at 5-6am. For instance, Bela who registered last September, is scheduled at 5:45. I'm student # 151 and my timing is at 7am. Apparently, some students who came in to register yesterday had to be turned away because the shala is closed and can't accommodate more.

I think there's roughly about 250 students here from all over the world. I may be wrong but it seems like the ratio is 55% men and 45% women, mostly yoga teachers. They come mainly to get away from the cold winter days and take advantage of the long holiday break from christmas to new year.

This morning, when I left past nine, there were still lots of people inside the shala. To tell you the truth, had I known that Sharath has his own shala, I would have registered in his class instead. There's just way too many people inside the shala. As a first timer in Mysore though, I'm glad to be in the presence of Guruji who's still strong at 92 years old.


My recommendation and this depends also on your intentions, if you want to avoid the crowd, try to come before or after the peak months of Jan-Feb. If you want to experience the amazing energy though come this time of the year. You can also sign up with Sharath or Saraswati. Both their classes start at 8:30 am and charge less than AYRI.

First Led @ AYRI: 1 hour and 10 mins

lunch with Nitta, Bela, Anguis, Liana

Liana is sick today. She was vomiting last night and before I left this morning for the second led class, she was extremely hot. I guess she must've eaten something. I didn't join her for breakfast at Tina's (indian lady) since I'm on a diet. I've resolved to lose weight to help me with my marichasanas. That's the only place I could think of where she may have picked up something because apart from breakfast, we ate in the same places - buffet lunch wtih Bela, Nitta (California), Anguis (Lithuania living in California) at Metropole hotel and buko juice for dinner at the coconut stand, the 'hippiest' watering hole in town. If her fever doesn't subside, I'm taking her at 5pm to Bela's landlord who is a doctor.

Now back to Yoga. The first led was last Friday. We got to the shala at 6:15 and it was already packed “mat-to-mat. I greeted Tokyo Yoga teacher Ken Nakamura at the foyer and he said “you better get in there fast.” I found a space against the wall, which can accommodate three-fourths of my mat. So I squeezed in and surprisingly, the girl next to me (Annette Forslund from Sweden) and everyone else in the row, moved. Liana found a space against the wall, but she was perpendicular to the room. Latecomers had to make do with the dressing room area and the foyer.

Guruji started on time at 6:30 with a command samastitih and started the opening prayer. The energy was amazing. I forgot about my knee and I was doing the poses and moving, breathing with the rest . Of course, I had difficulty with Garbhapindasana and afraid to head-butt my neighbors (Note: head butted the guy next to me today). In fact, I thought Saraswati was yelling at me to stop but she was looking at someone else. When Sharath's not in the shala, she’s the one telling people to stop. About six-eight people were asked to stop and were seated upright until the finishing sequence.

The whole primary series was carried out in one hour ten minutes. Note that after ulplutihi, we vinayasa-ed back and Guruji led the closing prayer. However, we had a very short navasana. After a minute or two, I heard Guruji say ‘thank you’ and when I opened my eyes, people were already making a beeline for puja. This is where the students pay their respect to Guruji by kissing his feet and now, includes his cheeks and/or a smack on his lips.

Today (Sunday), there were two primaries scheduled - 5am and 6:30am. It was Sharath who led the 6:30 class. Apparently he is more strict than his mum. I got to the shala at 6:15 to find everyone at Padaangusthasana. Sharath told the guys at the foyer to make space for me and I squeezed in the tight space. His counting is much looooonger. My arms were shaking at Sirsasana (15 upright and another 10 folded legs) and Utplutihi took forever.

After this weekend's led class, I guess I have to just keep practicing so I can keep up and overcome the challenges in a fast led class. Guruji keeps saying that everything is 99% practice and 1% theory. He said that the student will gain clarity of thought, strength of mind, and motivation to change. Well so far, I'm trying my best to go with the flow. Lets see how the week pans out.

First drop back @ AYRI

with Guruji Pattabi Jois 

I've started yoga way back in 1995 at Yoga Zone in New York which is mostly hatha yoga and got introduced to ashtanga in Singapore way back 2000.

Unfortunately, I'm not the most flexible person on this planet and this is further complicated by a cervical slipped disc injury in 1999 (due to over-training before a cave diving class scheduled in Florida). Thus, I am so thrilled that on the first day of the AYRI class, I was able to do my very first drop back. This is, a back bend from a standing position.

The first day of class was yesterday, New Year's January 1. We were told to come at 6:30 am. When we got to AYRI, people were milling about in the streets drinking coconut juice and shopping for organic wheat or banana bread, honey, soya milk carrot juice etc. I guess street vendors picked up the scene in Mysore and turned the area into a mini bazaar. The daybreak crowd was from the 5am class. There are three time slots: 5am is for those who have been here for months or have been coming to AYRI for several years; the second batch is at 630am and the third at 8am. The latter slot is mostly for newbies handled by Saraswati, the daughter of Guruji and the mother of Sharath.

When we walked in, the foyer area was already packed with students sitting on cold marble waiting for their turn. Either Guruji or Saraswati will call out "one more" or "two more" to fill out the empty mat space inside the shala. The closing sequence is done in the dressing room. The shala can fit up to 70 students maximum plus additional 5 to 6 people onstage. You can imagine the number of students this time of the year. The shala is full from 5 to 8 am and then starts thinning after 830am.

The mat space calls for very, very tight suryanamaskars and creative Suptas (I always look at my neighbors before I do this pose).. Guruji, who usually stays until 7am, Saraswati and Manju walk around assisting students. It seems that they are always present to assist during drop backs and I did my first with Saraswati and second today with Manju. I guess Manju flew in from the States because Sharath will be in Goa until Jan 8.

Manju is kind and loves to crack jokes. I told him about my tight knee this morning and he gently eased me through the Marich D. Yesterday he instructed Liana to do 16 drop backs and then started laughing when he saw her alarmed look. Saraswati comes across as being much tougher. Today on my Bhujapidasana I saw her walk away from my mat . So when I struggled to jump back, I was surprised to find her hand on my back and cued me to "stay up, stay up". However, I failed to stay up and she asked me to repeat everything.

The shala is closed on moon days, so tomorrow we'll be moving to a flat. We found a 2-bedroom on Countour Road yesterday two blocks down the shala. Boy, it took two days to find something decent. We solicited the help of everybody - Shiva, AYRI's merchandise manage (Muti), the owner of Arun internet cafe and resto (Ganesh) and the rickshaw driver recommended by Yoga Manila's Hoze Arando (Rama). Its a mad rush to find anything at this time - be it a room, flat or scooter. Ganesh told us this afternoon that there was a line outside his place with people with their luggage looking for accommodations. If you do plan to come, best to call and make reservations at least a month in advance (contact: Shiva +919844226082 or Muti +919880265622).

AYRI is so popular. With the dollar down at USD1=Rs42,the Rs26900 registration fee is expensive (includes the first month though). Then it is Rs17900 for each succeeding month. Guruji handles the registration personally from 4:30 to 5:30 pm from Mon-Fri. The sanskrit and chanting courses are M-W-F and cost Rs700 each. I signed up for the class and the teacher is Lakshmish from Kerala and is dead set serious on us learning. On the first day, our homework is to learn how to pronounce and write the eight out of 15 sanskrit vowels and to start reading the "Shrimad Bhagvadgita" by Svami Tapasynanda.

So far, been enjoying soaking up everything - 92-year old Guruji, the food, morning practice and the students from all over. Its like an international conference of various nationalities and ages. After the first drop back, I'm now open to anything.

Happy new year from Mysore

Jasailmer's sand dunes

Happy new year to all! We got to Mysore around 1am last night. Our baggage got stuck in Mumbai and we had to wait for it to arrive.

We came all the way from Rajastan's dessert,  Jasailmer the golden city. The trip took almost one day -  six hours by car from Jasailmer to Jodphur (overnight) and flew the next day via Jet air down south. The flight was two hour to Mumbai, another hour and half flight to Bangalore and then four hours by car to Mysore.

Bangalore is such a modern city and I must say more cosmopolitan than Delhi. I haven't been to Mumbai so I can't compare. Since our driver was hungry, we stopped at a starbucks-like coffee shop called "Coffee Day" along the road.

Before coming to India, I was warned to dress appropriately. This is, not to expose elbows and knees and preferably to cover the ankles too. So, I was surprised to see the Bangalore-locals clad in tight fitting tees and low, low waist jeans and most of them spoke english to everyone to the baristas, waiters and locals. Our driver said that Bangalore is the 5th biggest city in India. I guess the call centers have made the locals more liberal and daring.

We are currently billeted at the Green Hotel. It is located 15-mins away by rickshaw or tuk tuk to Sri Patabbi Jois' shala or the Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute (AYRI). It is quite modest compared to the hotels in Rajastan. The room is Rs1300 per night with breakfast.

The AYRI opened today after two weeks holiday. According to Linda, a Singaporean girl we met during breakfast at the hotel, there was a 'led' class at 6am this morning with approximate a 100 students in class. Some were spilling over the bathroom and foyer area since there was no space. A conference is scheduled this afternoon at 430 pm. We intend to register at this time. The rate has gone up to Rs26,900 for registration plus the first month. After, we plan to look for Shiva (AYRI's manager) or Mutti to help us find a place to stay. Shiva got the last studio for Linda yesterday at Rs5000 which includes the cost of a helper (which she claims to be quite exorbitant). Note that the rupee is now Rs42=US$1 versus two weeks ago when we arrived, when it was only Rs44!

Linda said Mysore-style classes will begin tomorrow at 6:30 am and Led is every Friday at 5am for primary and 6:30 for secondary series. I guess we'll find out more later after the conference.  Honestly, I'm very excited to join the class and also panic-stricken since I haven't practiced at all. I guess this will be the start of an ascetic lifestyle getting up as early as 4-5:00 am and to go to bed early.

The two-weeks Rajastan tour took us from Delhi-Agra-Jaipur-Udaipur-Jodphur-Jasailmer. It was a good road trip although I

The Hawa Mahal

don't recommend doing more than an hour on camel-back in Jasailmer. It's like riding a bicycle with square wheels and the sand dunes will be dotted with tourists. If you do intend to venture to Rajastan, stay longer in Udaipur and schedule shopping at Jodphur/Jasailmer. It gets cheaper the farther west you go.

Must-read before touring Rajastan is Gayatri Devi's autobiography for understanding the Rajputs and maharaja's history and lifestyle. I am currently reading mostly Indian-authors. Just finished Kiran Desai's 'Inheritance of Loss' which won her a Booker's Prize and now reading Rushdie's 'Shalimar the Clown'. I am a fan of Rushdie and love his Midnight's Children. The printed materials are so cheap here in India. The books are priced at Rs300 (US$7) or half the price than Manila. Also the newspaper is just Rs2.50 which costs almost 10x more in Manila. India is a reading nation and the people are very literate. Almost everyone speaks English here.

a snake charmer in Jaipur

My favorite newspaper so far is the Hindustan Times (published in Mumbai). I came across an article on Angelie Jolie quoting the Philippine Daily Inquirer "The actress, speaking to the Philippine Daily Inquirer said she has had 'two beautiful marriages' but that she doesn't currently feel the need to trot down the aisle." Jolie and American heart-throb Brad Pitt are now here in India filming 'A Mighty Heart', a movie about Daniel Pearl. "

By the way, as I write, my hair is now color orange. We experimented with henna at Bobbie's henna parlour inside the fort at Jasailmer two days ago. The henna was mixed with yogurt, eggs, wine, henna and some herbs and I think I kept it a bit longer than the prescribed time, So now my hair has turned orange. Can you believe it cost Rs550! It was well worth it because Bobbie, the 28-year old unmarried Bhramin caste woman (video below), is the only female establishment in Jasailmer who helps battered women who marry without dowries.

Here's wishing you the best for 2007 and may all your wishes come true... namaste!