Pattabi Jois: "Are you Married?"

with Guruji, Pattabi Jois

Last Sunday was the last conference with Guruji and surprisingly, his favorite question to everyone is "are you married?". 

It seems that in the last three conferences marriage has been his favorite topic. He kept talking about marriage, bramacharaya and ramachari and at great length. I guess it is an important part of yoga - to be in a relationship.... to know yourself better through a partner....So at the end of the conference, when we were milling around the shala saying goodbye to everyone, one guy (Anguis) went down on his knees and proposed to me! Maybe if Liana and I stayed longer, we'd be married! As a side note - Guruji has officiated several weddings at the shala. 

with Sharath

Yesterday was also our last led this time with Sharath. It was intense. I placed my mat at the corner of the room before the office entrance (warmest spot, no draft) and there was a man seated in the office watching the whole primary led. I thought it was the brother of Guruji. And guess what, lo and behold - it was LINO MIELE!! I should have brought my book for him to sign.

Looking back, so many things have happened in a month's time at Mysore. Physically, I've toned down. My knee still hurts so I warm up by doing 3-4x ardha baddha-related poses before fully folding my leg up. Liana mentioned that I have 'yoga'arms already and told her its from all the chaturangas!

Note on pains - Guruji said yesterday that if you can hold an asana for at least 3 hours without any pain, then you're ready for meditation/pranayama. The energy generated through meditation would be intense that your body/mind should be able hold it.

So many more to tell - the transformations of people at mysore, the energy, etc... But most memorable will be Guruji and his favorite advise 'all is coming.. practice practice practice.."

Mysore recommendations: Intuitive healing with Francis Rooney (francisroo@yahoo.com), Ayurvedic massage and castor oil treatment with Harini of the 3 sisters +91821-252-2788, Thai massage with Enzo, Color Meditation with Akhilanka (akhil_colours@yahoo.com.sg), sanskrit/chanting/sutra classes with Lakshmish +91-9900142135

Goa break and 'openings'

Goa was a good break - sun, saltwater, beach and skin exposure! We're all clad up in Mysore so its great to be in tank tops in this sweltering heat. Our travel agent booked us at a very touristy place though up North called Calangute. We should've listened to Gai who warned us that Goa is huge and recommended Palolem beach!

The province is divided into three areas - the North, Central and South. It would take more than a week to explore the beaches. Since Goa was a Portugues colony and half the population are Catholics, we opted to visit the churhces (also we're temple-fatigued already). Interesting to note that the body of St. Francis de Asisi is in the Basilica in Old Goa.

Most of the Yogis at Mysore go to either Purple Valley (South) or to Vagator (North). In Vagator, they stay at a vegan resort called "Beam me Up". We went there for dinner last Fri night and enjoyed quattro formagi pizza. Actually, our trip to Goa was a culinary delight since we took a break and indulged mostly in non-Indian fare.

Now we're back in Mysore. We have a WEEK left. My knee is acting up again. Maybe for being crammed up in the car in Goa and the 3-hour transfer to the airport (travel time to Mysore to Bangalore). Most of the yoga students here refer to aches and pains as 'openings'. Even the 'experts' experience pain and do some kind of therapy. It seems like there is a thriving therapeutic or healing business here - from intuitive healer (Francis), rolfer (Ken), traditional thai massage (Enzo), chiropractor, accupuncture (Sean), ayurveda (dr Kumar), wholistic (dr Jag). Dr. Jag is half the year in Mysore and the other half in Brunei. Fellow Philippine-yogini Joelle Goudsmit is currently apprenticing with him.

First Conference and Drop Back with Pattabi Jois

We had our first conference yesterday with Guruji. The conference is scheduled on Sundays at 4:30pm. The first one was canceled since he went out of town. The second one last Sunday was canceled because of the distribution of "i.d." cards. So, yesterday was the first one for the year.

We marched to the Shala at 4pm and it was already PACKED. The shala was noisy with everyone talking. But as soon as Guruji entered, it instantly quieted down.

Someone said that this is the first time he saw Guruji so talkative. It brought him back to the 1980s where Guruji was in a lecture mode. Just imagine Guruji non-stop talking for one hour! He kept quoting from Pantajali, Pradipika, etc. and laughing too.

Norwegian yoga instructor Alex Medin (teaches at Pure Yoga HKG) opened the conference by asking if one can achieve yama and niyamas thru asanas. Guruji said "only asana when we practice asanas". Sharath would butt in also. Note that his sister, who teaches in Bangalore, was also onstage about 3 feet away from Sharath.

After the conference, we saw Guruji in his office and asked his permission to take his photo. He said that he'll just run upstairs and be back in 10-mins. Mita (from Los Angeles) doubted that he'd come back since he locked the room and turned off the lights in his office. Liana said that he'll be back but since he's 92, not sure if he'll remember. So, we asked Alex and he said that Guruji practices Satya. And lo and behold, we saw him coming down the stairs and posed for us.

Well, today, he was the one who did my drop back. All of them - Manju, Saraswati, Guruji - have different styles. It was disaster for me because all I could hear was "wat wat wat" which meant "walk". I figured it out after. His energy was something else. I had to HUG him after and non stop thanking him.

Saraswati: Ladies holiday and knee remedy

with Saraswati

I actually practiced on my second day of my period and casually mentioned to Shruti (Sharath’s wife) while thanking her for helping me out that my stiffness was due to my condition. She was stupefied and told me not to come to the Shala during ‘ladies holiday’. That’s what they call women who have their monthly period.

Call me insensitive or thoughtless, but I assumed it was okay to practice for as long as I don’t do inversions. I was told that Guruji, a Brahmin, considers menstruation as a purification process where toxins are released from the body and thus, ‘dirty’ or unclean. He wouldn’t even touch students who have periods. I think this is an exaggeration though. I had flashbacks though of signs at the entrance of the temples in Rajastan (and in Bali). In Jasailmer, it says "Entrance of ladies during monthly course period is strictly prohibited they are requested to maintain the sanctity of the temple." So I guess its the same with the Shala, to treat it as a sacred place for ashtanga devotees.

Good news though to women, in case you don’t know - Sally Griffyn and Michaela Clarke wrote in their “Ashtanga for Women” book that with regular practice (six times a week), the period should become more efficient – short and heavy, lasting two or three days and over time, may coincide with the full or new moon. I have endometriosis and mine got more efficient - two days and heavier.

So on my third day (yesterday), I took the ‘day off ‘and went with Joelle to Jag Therapy to have my knee checked. The Jag Therapy Center is 7-8km away from Gokulam. It is run by Sri K.R.I. Jagadish, a renowned holistic doctor and author of several books including “Health, Herbs & Harmony Nature’s Way”. He practices half the year in Mysore and half the year in Brunei for the Sultan. Registration costs Rs50 and free for succeeding visits. There's a donation box though by the reception. He applied accupressure on my knee, hips and back. He also checked my eyes and I found out from him that I don’t have asthma; rather I am allergic to bananas, raw apples, milk and GLUTEN. (I have to say goodbye to my favs - chappati, nan and chai).

Sanskrit teacher Lakshimi

Well... not sure if he actually fixed my knee because today at Led class, I almost screamed in pain while doing ardha baddha padmottansana. Man, it hurts. My left is okay its just the right knee. Liana says it might be torn miniscus. During puja, after kissing/hugging Guruji, I told him about my predicament. He recommended to apply hot coconut oil mixed with lemon on it before practice and an hour before going to bed. I think I was the only one in the queue who asked him a question today.

I saw Saraswati today in the salon and she also recommended the hot coconut oil remedy. She also mentioned that the weather is changing and may affect my joints. Lakshimi, my sanskrit teacher recommended mixing Ghee with rice to increase flexibility. I have two weeks left in Mysore and hopefully, with all these recos, my knee will be alright. (Note Saraswati's website: http://www.saraswatiashtanga.com/saraswati.html)

Student #151 @ AYRI

Yesterday afternoon we were asked to go to the shala to collect our i.d. cards and to determine what time we should practice. Sharath organized the distribution of the cards per batch depending on the day of registration. This is, before december, before AYRI's mid-dec holiday break, Dec 30, Jan 1, Jan 2 and so on... This is the first time AYRI instituted an i.d. system. We have to bring and present the i.d. when we come to practice.

Those who registered way back come at 5-6am. For instance, Bela who registered last September, is scheduled at 5:45. I'm student # 151 and my timing is at 7am. Apparently, some students who came in to register yesterday had to be turned away because the shala is closed and can't accommodate more.

I think there's roughly about 250 students here from all over the world. I may be wrong but it seems like the ratio is 55% men and 45% women, mostly yoga teachers. They come mainly to get away from the cold winter days and take advantage of the long holiday break from christmas to new year.

This morning, when I left past nine, there were still lots of people inside the shala. To tell you the truth, had I known that Sharath has his own shala, I would have registered in his class instead. There's just way too many people inside the shala. As a first timer in Mysore though, I'm glad to be in the presence of Guruji who's still strong at 92 years old.


My recommendation and this depends also on your intentions, if you want to avoid the crowd, try to come before or after the peak months of Jan-Feb. If you want to experience the amazing energy though come this time of the year. You can also sign up with Sharath or Saraswati. Both their classes start at 8:30 am and charge less than AYRI.

First Led @ AYRI: 1 hour and 10 mins

lunch with Nitta, Bela, Anguis, Liana

Liana is sick today. She was vomiting last night and before I left this morning for the second led class, she was extremely hot. I guess she must've eaten something. I didn't join her for breakfast at Tina's (indian lady) since I'm on a diet. I've resolved to lose weight to help me with my marichasanas. That's the only place I could think of where she may have picked up something because apart from breakfast, we ate in the same places - buffet lunch wtih Bela, Nitta (California), Anguis (Lithuania living in California) at Metropole hotel and buko juice for dinner at the coconut stand, the 'hippiest' watering hole in town. If her fever doesn't subside, I'm taking her at 5pm to Bela's landlord who is a doctor.

Now back to Yoga. The first led was last Friday. We got to the shala at 6:15 and it was already packed “mat-to-mat. I greeted Tokyo Yoga teacher Ken Nakamura at the foyer and he said “you better get in there fast.” I found a space against the wall, which can accommodate three-fourths of my mat. So I squeezed in and surprisingly, the girl next to me (Annette Forslund from Sweden) and everyone else in the row, moved. Liana found a space against the wall, but she was perpendicular to the room. Latecomers had to make do with the dressing room area and the foyer.

Guruji started on time at 6:30 with a command samastitih and started the opening prayer. The energy was amazing. I forgot about my knee and I was doing the poses and moving, breathing with the rest . Of course, I had difficulty with Garbhapindasana and afraid to head-butt my neighbors (Note: head butted the guy next to me today). In fact, I thought Saraswati was yelling at me to stop but she was looking at someone else. When Sharath's not in the shala, she’s the one telling people to stop. About six-eight people were asked to stop and were seated upright until the finishing sequence.

The whole primary series was carried out in one hour ten minutes. Note that after ulplutihi, we vinayasa-ed back and Guruji led the closing prayer. However, we had a very short navasana. After a minute or two, I heard Guruji say ‘thank you’ and when I opened my eyes, people were already making a beeline for puja. This is where the students pay their respect to Guruji by kissing his feet and now, includes his cheeks and/or a smack on his lips.

Today (Sunday), there were two primaries scheduled - 5am and 6:30am. It was Sharath who led the 6:30 class. Apparently he is more strict than his mum. I got to the shala at 6:15 to find everyone at Padaangusthasana. Sharath told the guys at the foyer to make space for me and I squeezed in the tight space. His counting is much looooonger. My arms were shaking at Sirsasana (15 upright and another 10 folded legs) and Utplutihi took forever.

After this weekend's led class, I guess I have to just keep practicing so I can keep up and overcome the challenges in a fast led class. Guruji keeps saying that everything is 99% practice and 1% theory. He said that the student will gain clarity of thought, strength of mind, and motivation to change. Well so far, I'm trying my best to go with the flow. Lets see how the week pans out.

First drop back @ AYRI

with Guruji Pattabi Jois 

I've started yoga way back in 1995 at Yoga Zone in New York which is mostly hatha yoga and got introduced to ashtanga in Singapore way back 2000.

Unfortunately, I'm not the most flexible person on this planet and this is further complicated by a cervical slipped disc injury in 1999 (due to over-training before a cave diving class scheduled in Florida). Thus, I am so thrilled that on the first day of the AYRI class, I was able to do my very first drop back. This is, a back bend from a standing position.

The first day of class was yesterday, New Year's January 1. We were told to come at 6:30 am. When we got to AYRI, people were milling about in the streets drinking coconut juice and shopping for organic wheat or banana bread, honey, soya milk carrot juice etc. I guess street vendors picked up the scene in Mysore and turned the area into a mini bazaar. The daybreak crowd was from the 5am class. There are three time slots: 5am is for those who have been here for months or have been coming to AYRI for several years; the second batch is at 630am and the third at 8am. The latter slot is mostly for newbies handled by Saraswati, the daughter of Guruji and the mother of Sharath.

When we walked in, the foyer area was already packed with students sitting on cold marble waiting for their turn. Either Guruji or Saraswati will call out "one more" or "two more" to fill out the empty mat space inside the shala. The closing sequence is done in the dressing room. The shala can fit up to 70 students maximum plus additional 5 to 6 people onstage. You can imagine the number of students this time of the year. The shala is full from 5 to 8 am and then starts thinning after 830am.

The mat space calls for very, very tight suryanamaskars and creative Suptas (I always look at my neighbors before I do this pose).. Guruji, who usually stays until 7am, Saraswati and Manju walk around assisting students. It seems that they are always present to assist during drop backs and I did my first with Saraswati and second today with Manju. I guess Manju flew in from the States because Sharath will be in Goa until Jan 8.

Manju is kind and loves to crack jokes. I told him about my tight knee this morning and he gently eased me through the Marich D. Yesterday he instructed Liana to do 16 drop backs and then started laughing when he saw her alarmed look. Saraswati comes across as being much tougher. Today on my Bhujapidasana I saw her walk away from my mat . So when I struggled to jump back, I was surprised to find her hand on my back and cued me to "stay up, stay up". However, I failed to stay up and she asked me to repeat everything.

The shala is closed on moon days, so tomorrow we'll be moving to a flat. We found a 2-bedroom on Countour Road yesterday two blocks down the shala. Boy, it took two days to find something decent. We solicited the help of everybody - Shiva, AYRI's merchandise manage (Muti), the owner of Arun internet cafe and resto (Ganesh) and the rickshaw driver recommended by Yoga Manila's Hoze Arando (Rama). Its a mad rush to find anything at this time - be it a room, flat or scooter. Ganesh told us this afternoon that there was a line outside his place with people with their luggage looking for accommodations. If you do plan to come, best to call and make reservations at least a month in advance (contact: Shiva +919844226082 or Muti +919880265622).

AYRI is so popular. With the dollar down at USD1=Rs42,the Rs26900 registration fee is expensive (includes the first month though). Then it is Rs17900 for each succeeding month. Guruji handles the registration personally from 4:30 to 5:30 pm from Mon-Fri. The sanskrit and chanting courses are M-W-F and cost Rs700 each. I signed up for the class and the teacher is Lakshmish from Kerala and is dead set serious on us learning. On the first day, our homework is to learn how to pronounce and write the eight out of 15 sanskrit vowels and to start reading the "Shrimad Bhagvadgita" by Svami Tapasynanda.

So far, been enjoying soaking up everything - 92-year old Guruji, the food, morning practice and the students from all over. Its like an international conference of various nationalities and ages. After the first drop back, I'm now open to anything.

Happy new year from Mysore

Jasailmer's sand dunes

Happy new year to all! We got to Mysore around 1am last night. Our baggage got stuck in Mumbai and we had to wait for it to arrive.

We came all the way from Rajastan's dessert,  Jasailmer the golden city. The trip took almost one day -  six hours by car from Jasailmer to Jodphur (overnight) and flew the next day via Jet air down south. The flight was two hour to Mumbai, another hour and half flight to Bangalore and then four hours by car to Mysore.

Bangalore is such a modern city and I must say more cosmopolitan than Delhi. I haven't been to Mumbai so I can't compare. Since our driver was hungry, we stopped at a starbucks-like coffee shop called "Coffee Day" along the road.

Before coming to India, I was warned to dress appropriately. This is, not to expose elbows and knees and preferably to cover the ankles too. So, I was surprised to see the Bangalore-locals clad in tight fitting tees and low, low waist jeans and most of them spoke english to everyone to the baristas, waiters and locals. Our driver said that Bangalore is the 5th biggest city in India. I guess the call centers have made the locals more liberal and daring.

We are currently billeted at the Green Hotel. It is located 15-mins away by rickshaw or tuk tuk to Sri Patabbi Jois' shala or the Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute (AYRI). It is quite modest compared to the hotels in Rajastan. The room is Rs1300 per night with breakfast.

The AYRI opened today after two weeks holiday. According to Linda, a Singaporean girl we met during breakfast at the hotel, there was a 'led' class at 6am this morning with approximate a 100 students in class. Some were spilling over the bathroom and foyer area since there was no space. A conference is scheduled this afternoon at 430 pm. We intend to register at this time. The rate has gone up to Rs26,900 for registration plus the first month. After, we plan to look for Shiva (AYRI's manager) or Mutti to help us find a place to stay. Shiva got the last studio for Linda yesterday at Rs5000 which includes the cost of a helper (which she claims to be quite exorbitant). Note that the rupee is now Rs42=US$1 versus two weeks ago when we arrived, when it was only Rs44!

Linda said Mysore-style classes will begin tomorrow at 6:30 am and Led is every Friday at 5am for primary and 6:30 for secondary series. I guess we'll find out more later after the conference.  Honestly, I'm very excited to join the class and also panic-stricken since I haven't practiced at all. I guess this will be the start of an ascetic lifestyle getting up as early as 4-5:00 am and to go to bed early.

The two-weeks Rajastan tour took us from Delhi-Agra-Jaipur-Udaipur-Jodphur-Jasailmer. It was a good road trip although I

The Hawa Mahal

don't recommend doing more than an hour on camel-back in Jasailmer. It's like riding a bicycle with square wheels and the sand dunes will be dotted with tourists. If you do intend to venture to Rajastan, stay longer in Udaipur and schedule shopping at Jodphur/Jasailmer. It gets cheaper the farther west you go.

Must-read before touring Rajastan is Gayatri Devi's autobiography for understanding the Rajputs and maharaja's history and lifestyle. I am currently reading mostly Indian-authors. Just finished Kiran Desai's 'Inheritance of Loss' which won her a Booker's Prize and now reading Rushdie's 'Shalimar the Clown'. I am a fan of Rushdie and love his Midnight's Children. The printed materials are so cheap here in India. The books are priced at Rs300 (US$7) or half the price than Manila. Also the newspaper is just Rs2.50 which costs almost 10x more in Manila. India is a reading nation and the people are very literate. Almost everyone speaks English here.

a snake charmer in Jaipur

My favorite newspaper so far is the Hindustan Times (published in Mumbai). I came across an article on Angelie Jolie quoting the Philippine Daily Inquirer "The actress, speaking to the Philippine Daily Inquirer said she has had 'two beautiful marriages' but that she doesn't currently feel the need to trot down the aisle." Jolie and American heart-throb Brad Pitt are now here in India filming 'A Mighty Heart', a movie about Daniel Pearl. "

By the way, as I write, my hair is now color orange. We experimented with henna at Bobbie's henna parlour inside the fort at Jasailmer two days ago. The henna was mixed with yogurt, eggs, wine, henna and some herbs and I think I kept it a bit longer than the prescribed time, So now my hair has turned orange. Can you believe it cost Rs550! It was well worth it because Bobbie, the 28-year old unmarried Bhramin caste woman (video below), is the only female establishment in Jasailmer who helps battered women who marry without dowries.

Here's wishing you the best for 2007 and may all your wishes come true... namaste!