Weekend bout with Sacroiliac

Just sharing my wknd bout with sacroiliac dysfunction, low back pain (midline). Man, it was painful to walk or drive. I initially felt pain on my lower back brewing last Friday and the next day (Saturday), after my meeting in the afternoon, headed straight to the traditional chinese wellness center recommended by Zenaida Seva at Ortigas Center called Beijing Tong Reng Tang or TRT (tel# 638-4382), touted as the most authentic herbal pharmacy in China which is now in Manila.
A Dr. Wang diagnosed me by checking my pulse and tongue and assured me that pain will "go away." The treatment started with ox-horn scrubbing (guasha), cupping (ventosa) and then acupuncture with electric current and heat. He then prescribed an assortment of chinese herbs which was cooked in TRT and packed in an airtight plastic pouch (total of 14 pouches); and also prescribed a marble-size medicine called 'Tongren Dahuoluo Dan' to be swallowed whole. The protocol to be taken twice a day was to "expel wind-evil and relax the tendons" and to remove "pains in the limbs and trunk... stiffness of musles and joints, having difficulty getting about."
The first treatment somehow alleviated my lower back pain but it transferred to my right leg, radiating from my groin down my knees to my toes and it was very very painful to drive. So the next day, went back for another treatment. This time, Dr. Wang did acupressure on my back and then addressed the right leg area (groin-knee-toes) with acupuncture and electric current. Believe it or not, the pain instantly disappeared. But he said my lower back may take some time and recommended to have it x-rayed.
I trotted to Medical City right away to have my back checked and x-rayed. The resident said I had degenerative bone (L1-L2) and my problem is just muscular-skeletal and presciibed myonal (muslce relaxant), arcoxia (pain reliver) and of all things Voltaren (!!!) which has been taken off the shelf by FDA because it may cause serious cardio vascular side effects, such as MI or stroke, which may result in hospitalization and even death.
Unfortunately, this is my second misdiagnosis at the Medical City ER department. First time was 2001 when the ER doctor described my stomach pain condition as gastroenteritis and 3 days later, I was opened up for acute apendicitis at MMC. I showed my x-ray to chriopracter Dr. Sonny Uy last Monday who said that the xray indicated sacroiliac and did the usual cracking of bones (aligned my hips, etc). He said that I twisted my hips and need to be bedridden to avoid putting weight on my hips - i.e. no sitting, walking or diving.
The chinese herbs of TRT helped put me to sleep most of yesterday. So, now I'm okay (hopefully) and need one more adjustment with Dr. Uy.
According to Dr. Michael Amaral of back.com, this ailment typically strikes 30s or 40s women who has had children. "It is thought that the relaxation of the sacroiliac ligaments necessary for childbirth does not fully reverse, and that a subsequent minor trauma may sublux (partially dislocate) the joint and cause pain." I'm more of the "younger women may develop sacroiliac problems as a result of sport or other injuries. The condition also occurs in men, but less frequently and usually from more severe injuries, often involving lifting while the trunk is in torsion." Ha ha... I don't know how Liana can bear the pain though. She has a similar problem but I guess more acute.

Salam Malaykum from Egypt

Bettina, Clang, Rae and moi at King Tut's tomb

That's Bettina Go, Clang Garcia, Raeanna Cranbourne and moi outside the tomb of King Tut in Luxor's Valley of the Kings, a vast funerary complex at the West Bank. We finally made it after much visa hullabaloo in Manila. Thanks to Kim Harrington who not only helped us get our 'visa upon arrival' but also hosted us at her place in the hippest Cairo-hood in Zamalek, helped us with our tours and even got us an affable taxi driver, Abdul Amin!

We've seen most of Egypt in a week. First stop was Cairo's Citadel (1176) and An-Nasir Mohammed mosque (1318). It wasn't hazy that day and got a clear view of Giza's pyramids from the terrace. From the citadel, we drove through traffic (the city has 15 million population) to visit one of the seven wonders of the world - the pyramids! There are three structures: the Great Pyramid of Khufu (2750 BC) at 146m high, his son's called Khafre (136m) and his wife's Mankaure (62m). It is indeed amazing to be at the foot of a monstrous mountain life-like size tomb and it makes me wonder if there is any truth to its extra teresstial origin.

the Red Sea

The next day we flew East to Hurgada and drove down the coast to dive the Red Sea. It was a toss up with Sharm el-Sheikh but we were warned that it was very crowded and most of the corals are damaged so we opted for Marsa Alam, a newly built city with relatively less divers. Brrr! It was freezing at 22 degrees! I felt like a 'Michelin' man in a 5mm full suit plus a 5mm shortie! The dive operator at our hotel (Iberotel), Coraya Divers was run by Germans. They were very organized. I'm referred to #164 - for my locker box number, gear, etc. It was quite expensive at 20 euros for full gear rental per day (without computer) and 30 euros per dive (its an extra 3 euros for the guide). The best dive sites require a full day boat trip to "Elephinstone' and "Sataya".

We did another dive (in Sha'ab Marsa Alam) the next day before heading out to Safaga to cross the Red Sea mountains with a police convoy to Luxor. I've never felt secured with checkpoints every 500 meters or so and a police escort. I guess after the bombing incident at Sinai in 2005, the government is trying to protect its US$6B tourism industry. The drive took almost five hours, 2 hours to Safaga and 3 hours to Luxor.

At Luxor, we went first to the West Bank's Colossi of Memnon where we were welcomed by a pair of massive statues (18m high). Then drove to Deir al-Bahri to climb the steps up to visit the mortiuary complex of the first female 'male' pharoah, Queen Hapsheshut (very difficult to pronounce, just say hot chiken soup). Its a limestone monument carved out of a mountain! First sign of vandalism here with coptic graffiti and also where her stepson Tuthmosis III scratched out her face. Then drove to the Valley of the Kings to visit the tombs of Rameses I, IV and VI. There are 700 tombs and only 15 tombs are open for public viewing. Our ticket allowed us to visit 3 tombs. The highlight here would be the colorful painted walls depicting the life of the pharaoh, scenes to help guide his journey through his afterlife, heiroglyphics and the sacrophogaus at the end of the tomb (the contents - mummy, gold masks, etc - are at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo).

Luxor

ancient hieroglyphs

After, we drove through the Tomb of the Nobles and stopped at Deir al-Medina named after a coptic temple built by christian monks. Here we visited two tombs of the workers where for 5-20 egyptian pounds, the guards allowed us to take photos! It was extremely hot in Luxor at 40 degrees, so we decided to break for lunch at a resto along the Nile River. After lunch, we spent the whole afternoon in the temple complex of Karnak and Luxor and in the evening, did the Sound and Light show. (note: we bought tickets through our travel agent only to find out its cheaper and easier to do it on your own).

at the foot of the Step Pyramid of Zoser

After Luxor, we flew back to Cairo and Abdul picked us up and drove straight to Saqqara, a huge cemetery of ancient Memphis where the oldest pyramid is located called Step Pyramid of Zoser. For 5 pounds, we were able to take photos inside the tombs. After visiting the pyramids and the newly built museum, we drove 10 kms away to Dashur where we climbed the 125 steep stone steps of the Red Pyramid and down the 63m long claustrophic passageway down the tomb.

Dashur

The next day Kim drove us to Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great. We walked down the Corniche to Bibliotheca Alexandrina, designed by Norwegian architect Snøhetta, it houses millions of books, 3 museums and a planetarium. Then a seafood feast down at the seafood market and walked down to Fort Qaitbey (1480 AD). Back in Zamalek, we were too exhausted to eat out and decided to watch DVD of "The Yacoubian Building", film adapted from Alaa El Aswany's novel.

The next day, Kim booked us to Wadi El-Hatin (western dessert) on a 4WD with driver Moustafa and his side kick Mohamed, to visit the UNESCO world heritage site for the first recorded fossilised skeletons of primitive whales. The site used to be a vast ocean some 35 million years ago. The topography is likened to the Grand Canyon in the United States. We had a picnic lunch at the nearby dessert Waddi Rayyan. Then before heading back to Cairo, a stopover at Tunis a plush domain-secondaire type village to view pottery. (note: town not recorded in Lonely Planet).

A sea in the desert between 250 million and 35 million years ago

For our last night in Egypt, Kim took us to a walking tour of Islamic Cairo. Our first stop was to a bazaar where locals go to (opposite Khan al-Khalili) and then crossed the street to the famous touristy Khan and visited several shops including the famous Fishawi's Coffeehouse. The nobel peace prize author Nagib Mafouz (Cairo Trilogy) grew up in this neighborhood in Sharia al-Gamaliyya.

I enjoyed my trip and luckily, despite warnings by friends, we didn't get harrassed at all by street hawkers or for 'baksheesh' (tips). The magic word is 'la' shukran' which means "no thank you". Also most earn pathetic monthly salaries of 40-50 pounds (tomb guards) or 78 pounds (military solider). That's why they end up harrassing toursits for tips. I'm quite tolerant and in fact, ended giving tips to everybody!

Pattabi Jois: "Are you Married?"

with Guruji, Pattabi Jois

Last Sunday was the last conference with Guruji and surprisingly, his favorite question to everyone is "are you married?". 

It seems that in the last three conferences marriage has been his favorite topic. He kept talking about marriage, bramacharaya and ramachari and at great length. I guess it is an important part of yoga - to be in a relationship.... to know yourself better through a partner....So at the end of the conference, when we were milling around the shala saying goodbye to everyone, one guy (Anguis) went down on his knees and proposed to me! Maybe if Liana and I stayed longer, we'd be married! As a side note - Guruji has officiated several weddings at the shala. 

with Sharath

Yesterday was also our last led this time with Sharath. It was intense. I placed my mat at the corner of the room before the office entrance (warmest spot, no draft) and there was a man seated in the office watching the whole primary led. I thought it was the brother of Guruji. And guess what, lo and behold - it was LINO MIELE!! I should have brought my book for him to sign.

Looking back, so many things have happened in a month's time at Mysore. Physically, I've toned down. My knee still hurts so I warm up by doing 3-4x ardha baddha-related poses before fully folding my leg up. Liana mentioned that I have 'yoga'arms already and told her its from all the chaturangas!

Note on pains - Guruji said yesterday that if you can hold an asana for at least 3 hours without any pain, then you're ready for meditation/pranayama. The energy generated through meditation would be intense that your body/mind should be able hold it.

So many more to tell - the transformations of people at mysore, the energy, etc... But most memorable will be Guruji and his favorite advise 'all is coming.. practice practice practice.."

Mysore recommendations: Intuitive healing with Francis Rooney (francisroo@yahoo.com), Ayurvedic massage and castor oil treatment with Harini of the 3 sisters +91821-252-2788, Thai massage with Enzo, Color Meditation with Akhilanka (akhil_colours@yahoo.com.sg), sanskrit/chanting/sutra classes with Lakshmish +91-9900142135

Goa break and 'openings'

Goa was a good break - sun, saltwater, beach and skin exposure! We're all clad up in Mysore so its great to be in tank tops in this sweltering heat. Our travel agent booked us at a very touristy place though up North called Calangute. We should've listened to Gai who warned us that Goa is huge and recommended Palolem beach!

The province is divided into three areas - the North, Central and South. It would take more than a week to explore the beaches. Since Goa was a Portugues colony and half the population are Catholics, we opted to visit the churhces (also we're temple-fatigued already). Interesting to note that the body of St. Francis de Asisi is in the Basilica in Old Goa.

Most of the Yogis at Mysore go to either Purple Valley (South) or to Vagator (North). In Vagator, they stay at a vegan resort called "Beam me Up". We went there for dinner last Fri night and enjoyed quattro formagi pizza. Actually, our trip to Goa was a culinary delight since we took a break and indulged mostly in non-Indian fare.

Now we're back in Mysore. We have a WEEK left. My knee is acting up again. Maybe for being crammed up in the car in Goa and the 3-hour transfer to the airport (travel time to Mysore to Bangalore). Most of the yoga students here refer to aches and pains as 'openings'. Even the 'experts' experience pain and do some kind of therapy. It seems like there is a thriving therapeutic or healing business here - from intuitive healer (Francis), rolfer (Ken), traditional thai massage (Enzo), chiropractor, accupuncture (Sean), ayurveda (dr Kumar), wholistic (dr Jag). Dr. Jag is half the year in Mysore and the other half in Brunei. Fellow Philippine-yogini Joelle Goudsmit is currently apprenticing with him.