A visit to Zenkoji Temple is less about sightseeing and more about entering a living history and devotion. With nearly 1,400 years of continous worship, Zenkoji is one of Japan's most important Buddhist temple, known for its rare non-sectarian spirit that welcomes everyone, regardless of belief and background.
The temple was founded in 642 AD and enshrines the Ikko-Sanzon Amida Nyoral, believed to be one of the oldest Buddhist images in Japan. The original statue is a hibutsu, or hidden Buddha, never shown to the public. A reminder that faith here is experiential rather than visual. There's an old saying that you should visit Zenkoji at least once in your lifetime.
The Walk In, the Hall and the Darkness Below
Getting to the temple is part of the experience. The omotesando is a wide, gently uphill street lined with small shops and cafes.Passing through the Sanmon Gate, you arrive at the Main Hall (Hondo), rebuilt in 1707 and one of the largest wooden Buddhist Halls from the Edo period.
Underneath the hall is Okaidan Meguri, a pitch dark underground passage. You walk through in complete darkness, one hand on the wall, slowly feeling your way forward, as you search for a hidden key said to represent enlightenment. It's a little unsettling first, but also grounding. Without sight, everything comes back to breath, touch and trust. It's simple and surprisingly moving.
Lunch at Takizaw
After the temple, we walked back down the omotesando for lunch at Takizawa, set in a beautifully restored historic building.
We ordered the lunch special, which came with six seasonal appetizers: pumpkin with perilla, tender Sanadamara chicken, silky house-made tofu, fried shrimp dumplings wrapped in shiso, sautéed chicken and vegetables in a light broth, and a fresh Shinshu salmon salad. Every dish felt carefully prepared and well balanced. That was followed by chicken tempura and hot Shinshu buckwheat soba noodles—comforting in the best way.
We paired the meal with local sake, Zenkoji Hizoshu and Hoka, both excellent.
Art to End the Day
To close the afternoon, we walked back uphill to the Nagano Prefectural Art Museum to see Borrowed Place, Borrowed Time by photographer Keizo Kitajima, who was born in Nagano. His images are quiet, intimate, and focused on everyday moments. After the temple, they felt like a continuation of the same conversation—about presence, impermanence, and what it means to really notice life as it is.
Zenkoji ended up being more than just a temple visit. It was a full, unhurried day where history, ritual, food, and art all flowed together naturally—and one I’d gladly repeat.
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