Thank my lucky stars crossed my mind while I was heading down south on the train to Cote d'Azur, to Nice where the K3s - this is, Kebo, Karen and Kopi (their french bulldog)- were holed up for a month.
Each year I try to celebrate my birthday, actually my solar return in a different time zone from where I live. This is in the hope that it may positively change the experience of the year to come. Astrologically speaking, a solar return is when the sun returns to the same exact position in the sky as one is were born.
the K3s
I was thanking my lucky stars because that day, the train that I was supposed to be on encountered an accident somewhere in Brittany and luckily, I was able to get on another train to Nice despite the peak summer season and be upgraded to first class. The trip though was much longer but I was happy that I was able to get on board enjoying the scenery while reading Sadhana Singh's "Everyday Excellence".
I arrived in Nice ten hours later and the K3s were there in the train station to greet me. They all looked tanned and lean and Kopi looked well adjusted to the European life. We walked to their flat which was near the beach and while walking, Kopi would say hello to the dogs along the way.
It was truly nice to be in Nice in the summer where the well-heeled were out to play. Coming from Manila and maybe even anywhere else in the world, I've never seen so many opulent toys out. When we were in Cannes (half an hour away by train), I swear I counted ten different colored Ferraris while walking down the Croisette. And the night we were in Monte Carlo, it was all royalty. The paparazzi were waiting outside the Opera for HSH Prince Albert II, HSH Princess of Monaco and HRH Princess of Hanover to show up for the Love Ball Riviera. We didn't get to see them but enjoyed viewing all the luxury yachts of their guests moored in the bay.
luxury yachts moored in Monte Carlo
La Fontaine du Soleil in the old town in Nice
the beach in Cannes
The K3s were perfectly located since Nice is a train hop to everywhere down the coast of the French Riviera. In Nice, we practically spent most of our time in chic, eco place called Hi Beach which was a short walk from the K3s, along the Promenade des Anglais.
As for my lucky stars, well, it really does not help to go somewhere to try to change the stars. As Stanley Kowalski said in A Streetcar Named Desire, "You know what luck is? Luck is believing you're lucky."
When my friend asked me where I was going for my birthday, I said "off to 'Blois" to which she replied "whaaaaat? Blah?? where's that?"
This year I'm spending my solar return in a yoga festival with, according to the 3HO site "about 2,000 people from Europe (and some from Africa, Asia, America, etc) in a natural environment to practice eight days of yoga and other activities related to the teachings of Yogi Bhajan including three days of White Tantric yoga." The festival will be held in Domaine de Fondjouan, located south of Paris, where the nearest train station is Blois (in the Loire Valley).
It was my yoga teacher Marisa Harnadh who recommended to go last May. She said "why not spend your birthday with the Yogis?" Well, I asked for something different this year and the next thing I knew, I already booked everything from the festival fee, accommodations, even the flight.
I thought everything was a-ok until for some strange reason, I had an inkling to leaf through my passport. That's when I discovered that my Schengen visa has expired. Honestly, I was so confident that my visa was still valid that it didn't even cross my mind to check last May. I immediately checked the website for information. Note that the the website indicated in italics Appointments may only be made within three months from the date of departure. Three months!?! I crossed my fingers, dialed the embassy's call center and I guess the universe must be on my side because I got an appointment for Friday, July 5. I know that it's a bit tight considering that the scheduled appointment is two weeks before the date of departure.
So, for those going on holiday to France or any other Schengen area - that's to any 22 European Union member states or to any four European Free Trade Association member states - do lodge your application early. Here are the steps to apply for a Schengen tourist visa:
First, set an appointment by calling the Embassy's call center. For France, call any of these numbers: PLDT 1 (909) 101-3333, Globe 1 (900) 101-3333 or Bayantel 1 (903) 101-3333. There is a toll charge of P32 per minute excluding VAT and NDD charges for calls made outside Metro Manila.
Then prepare two sets of documents (original and photocopy) of the following:
Signed Schengen visa application form (click here) with photo (35mm x 45mm, white background).
Valid passport (3) month's validity from the end of intended stay and photo copy of valid and former visas.
Cover letter explaining the purpose of the trip and proposed day-to-day itinerary.
Details about the trip: Proof of accommodations (vouchers), round trip flight booking (note: it says not to purchase ticket).
Proof of employment - certificate of employment with monthly salary and leave of absence approved by employer.
Proof of income - income tax return, recent bank certification, photocopy of the last three months statement of account.
Identity - birth certificate, if married, also include a photocopy of your marriage contract.
An international travel insurance
The visa fee of EUR 60 (short stay) is non-refundable and must be paid in cash, in Philippine pesos.
Have you ever wondered why people say "many happy returns' on your birthday?
Astrologically, it means that "on your birthday each year the sun returns to its natal position. This is known as the solar return and thus, marks the beginning of a new year... Where you are at the time of the solar return can affect the house positions of the planets ... changing your location, even just for that day can move the planets into different house and thereby influence other areas of life instead."
So for my solar return this year, I opted to spend it outside my country of birth, in other words - - abroad to shake up my planetary configuration!
BFF Gai helped in choosing and planning. Since I wouldn't be able to enter our first choice Beirut (Lebanon) because of an Israeli-stamp on my passport, we narrowed down the destinations to PIGS which is the acronym for Portugal-Italy-Greece-Spain or countries that are currently experiencing debt crisis and therefore, to some place reasonable.
May I add that it helped that the peso was strong at P50 to 1 compared to last year's P70. By process of elimination, we settled with Portugal where neither of us have been to. Well, I was there when I was 17 backpacking but I don't remember much.
Vasco de Gama monument on Tagus River
Before finalizing, I took a last minute poll just to be sure, between Prague and Lisbon. Prague won hands down. I guess like everyone else, I must admit that Portugal is not one of my top-of-mind destinations and still think it's part of Spain because of its proximity! Actually it was until 1494 when both countries signed the treaty of Tordesillas which divided the world - yes, the world, between two hemispheres. Portugal at the time led the age of discovery with its explorers Vasco da Gama who was the first to sail eastward to India around Africa in 1498 and Ferdinand Magellan who was the first to circumnavigate the globe and discovered the Philippines in 1521.
Anyway, Gai made all the arrangements including finding the best located funky apartment in Sta. Catarina on the fringe of Chiado and getting acquainted with the warm, friendly folk. We looked to Anthony Bourdian as our guide to glorious food. We're both familiar with Portuguese food having visited Macau and Goa but nothing beats eating in the country itself.
Tram No. 28
For first timers in Lisbon, I strongly advise to do a walking tour with the We hate Tourism company to get your bearings and have a good feel of the districts. The tram No 28 was plying through our neighborhood but with all the pickpocket warnings, we ended up cabbing everywhere. Warning: ditch stilettos! The place has seven hills and thus hilly [duh!] plus it will be extremely difficult to negotiate the cobblestones without the heels getting stuck.
Barrio Chiado, one of the eight districts
The best way to explore Lisbon is to map out the sights per district as Gai had planned. For instance, spend half a day in Belem and check out Vasco de Gama's monument and Tower, have cocktails by the river, visit Berardo museum and the Monastery, eat the local food in the area and of course Pasteis de Belem for the best egg tarts in town. Another is to spend a full day in the old district in Alfama on a Tuesday or Saturday starting with the Feira de Ladra flea market which opens at 8am, the Fado museum, Castelo de Sao Paolo (castle), Se cathedral, etc. Or go out of town to visit the beaches - not to miss is Sintra! Or soak up the view in any of the districts' park with a glass of vinho verde (green wine) or hangout in Fernando Pessoa's favorite cafe Brasileira in Chiado to watch the various acts - it may be a mime, a flame thrower and believe it or not, even an alpine horn blower.
Five must do in Lisbon:
Clams served in Ramiro with garlic and cilantro, a staple
1. Restos - Portuguese food is basically seafood - the famous bacalau (cod), sardines, and my favorite octopus! Try Ramiro for its fresh seafood (warning: check menu prices becaue it's by kg) and make sure to order a Prego for dessert and end with a Pedrini which is ice cream, orange juice and vodka; Cantinho da Avillez for lunch, Oliver's Restaurant (of the three, I like the Restaurant where I spent my birthday), 100 Maneiras, Pasteis de Belem or Nata for the best egg tarts, Pareirinha de Alfama for some original Fado music and arroz de marisco which is much better than paella, or if you want some fresh organic veggies try Flower Power on Calzada do Combro and of course, anywhere in Barrio Alto for a good meal. Also Santini for ice cream, breakfast in a Padaria Portuguesa.
Gai with designer/owner in Feira de Lard
2. Shopping - Feira de Ladra flea market (Tuesdays and Saturdays from 8am to 2pm), designer shops at Barrio Alto and Chiado, El Corte Ingles.
3. Bars- Pensao Amor, Silk, BBC, Instituto do Vinho for the best Porto wine, anywhere in Barrio Alto - where, mind you, the nightlife starts at midnight!
4. Museums - the ancient and modern art collection of Armenian billionaire Calouste Gulbenkian and the contemporary art collection of Portuguese millionaire Jose Manuel Rodrigues Berardo, theManueline-style architecture Jeronimos Monastery in Belem which is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mude Design and a must-see is Sao Domingos Church in Chiado which has been left untouched since the 1755 earthquake.
breathtaking view in Cascais
5. Sights outside Lisbon - the mystical Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which has masonry alchemy symbols (do skip Cascais if you have only one day), visit Fatima to join the hopefuls and kneel all the way to the shrine, Estoril where we spent our first night in Tamariz and if you have more time, go visit the much talked about Porto!
After shaking my stars so to speak, let's see how my year pans out and maybe.. I may spend my solar return again elsewhere. Read Gai's Guide to Lisbon part 1 and part 2.
