Finding Happiness in Bhutan

Takstang Monastery behind us

Om Mane Padme Hum. I’m grateful to have visited this happy land-locked country in the Himalayas called Bhutan. This is the last standing Buddhist kingdom and ranked one of the happiest country in the world. This is the only country where the Gross National Happiness (GNH) is more important than Gross National Product and they have a Minister of Happiness to make sure that the people are happy.  

I've never heard of GNH before and don't know of any other country that measures it's value based on Happiness. The reigning monarchy has decreed that the well-being of its people is the priority, promoting the values of love, love of country, respect and protection of the environment over economic growth. Here's Bhutan’s Prime Minister Tshering Tobgay on TED Talk where he explains how Bhutan puts happiness first and how Bhutan has set a world standard for environmental preservation. 

 
Are the people happy? I asked our guide Namgyi and with a beaming smile, he said "definitely!" He said that health care and education is free and he works six months a year and the rest of the year he travels and explores other destinations and visits his son who studying in New York. He himself was given the opportunity to study in Austria to hone his skills in tourism. 
 
The visit for me is sublimely healing. 

All 13 of us at the entrance of Punakha Dzhong

We visited monasteries in Thimphu but the most engaging one was in Punakha. We were there for the opening of the three day Punakha Festival where the monks and townsfolk performed rituals and sacred dances in colorful, swirling costumers and elaborate headdresses, scarves, hats, gold crowns and head masks depicting animals. The festivalgoers were also colorful in their traditional garb, the Kira and Ghos.

The highlight was the Black Hat dance performed only by monks wearing heavy brocade gown with kimono-like sleeves. The dance is a ritual done on the first day to ward off evil spirits. 

It is said that watching  the sacred dances during a festival removes five obstacles, illnesses and secret delusions. Kenzing Namgay described this "The five outer obstacles are caused by the planet of the upper world, mountain Gods of the intermediate world, earth spirits, serpents and death spirits. The five illnesses arise from obstructions  in psychic nerves that transmit vital energies; the energy flow in the motions, breath, air and wind; the seed essence and the empty nature of energy. The five secret delusions are desire, anger, ignorance, pride and jealousy." 

The Black Hat dance

Mingling with the colorful festivalgoers at Punakha

From there we went to the Chimi Lhaklang village, which was adorned with phalluses all over - yes, phalluses! Our guide actually warned us not to be offended by these sightings. He said that the phallus is known as the "Thunderbold of Flaming Wisdom" a symbol of Lama Drukpa Kunley referred to as the "Divine Madman". The symbol represents both fertility and the power to bring enlightenment and to ward off evil to those who seek his teachings. 

Phallus symbols adorn the walls of this village

Spotted a lady with her offering

We hiked 20-minutes through the rice fields to the temple which is famous for blessing childless couples. When we got to the temple, we spotted a lady carrying a 20-inch wooden phallus with a white ribbon tied to it and was was walking around the temple three times.  

We went inside the temple and set our intentions. After which, the monk blessed us with a wooden phallus and a bow and arrow. The couple in our group refused to enter the temple since they are already blessed with three children aged 17, 9 and 1 years old. 

Connecting wtih nature
In Punakha, we were billeted in an ultra-modern resort called Dhensa in the mountains. It was so beautiful that we decided to do some yoga and meditation early the next day. I led a yin class and Karla led a gratitude circle to give thanks to everything that we have in our lives. After breakfast, we did a KQ dance called "opening the lotus of your aura" to clear our auric field of negativities, connect to the elements and connect with our surroundings.

Early morning yoga exercise to op;en the lotus of our aura

Blessed by Guru Rinpoche's Tiger's Nest.
The last day was special, the highlight of the trip. We hiked all the way up to the sacred Takstang (Tiger's Nest) monastery. I felt like I dissolved into the serenity and beauty of the monastery as it is fused to the sheer-rock cliff face, 900 meters off the ground. The climb was steep on a dirt trail surrounded by pine trees. 

The trail 

Communing with nature

The monastery was devoid of prayer flags. Our guide, Nam, explained that they no longer allow putting prayer flags after a Thai tourist fell off the cliff after taking a selfie. Apparently, the tourist leaned over the prayer flags thinking it was safe to do so. Now, there are railings in place.  I don’t mind not having the colorful flags fluttering with the wind as is typical in sacred grounds in the Himalayas. I prefer viewing the monastery in its natural environment, perched on a cliff of granite walls surrounded by the evergreen forest.

Tiger's Nest Monastery

To keep the place in its pristine state, we weren't allowed to take photos inside the monastery. We were able to sit and meditate in the same place where great Tibetan saints meditated including Milarepa. The monaster is where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have descended on a flying tiger in the 8th century bearing the Nyingma Tantric teachings.

My best takeaway in this beautiful country is all it takes is to live simply and be kind and respectful of ourselves, of others and especially of our environment. I'll be forever chanting the mantra of the mountains Om Mane Padme Hum which means 'Hail to the Jewel of the Lotus!' 

The art of wearing a Bhutanese Kira

a traditional Kira

The Bhutanese are proud of their national heritage and this is evident as most of the women wear the traditional Kira dress and the men, the Gho.

The Kira is an ankle-length dress made of a woven fabric.  The hand-woven ones are heavier and warmer and also more expensive.  The fabric is wrapped around the body and delicately folded on one side. 

We were invited to have dinner at the home of our travel organizer, Snow Leopard, in Thimpu. The mother of our host personally dressed all of us in traditional Bhutanese clothes.

She first wrapped a beautiful hand-woven, 100-year old Kira up to my shoulders which she pinned with an antique silver Koma (repousse brooch), one for each shoulder. Then she made me put on a Wonji, a light-colored, long-sleeved silk blouse and wrapped a 3-inch  hand-woven belt around my waist. Last is the Toego, a dark-colored heavy silk jacket with the end of the Wonji folded back to form a cuff. For the final touches, she pinned a brooch to secure the jacket from opening and added two strands of antique gemstone necklace. 

Nowadays, the Kiras are cut at the waist instead of pulling it up all the way up the shoulders  Here's Tessa being dressed  by one of the festivalgoer at Punakha:

A festivalgoer helping Tessa put on a Kira

It is interesting to note that the Koma, especially the old designs, can double up as a self-defense weapon. At the textile museum, I spotted one of the antique silver brooches that resembled a knife. The guide said that some of the brooches were used as knives for protection. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo since we weren't allowed to take photos inside.

Here we all are wearing our traditional Kira.

List of Philippine holidays for 2015

Happy new year!  Here's my annual list of Philippine holidays. It's good to start the year right by writing down your resolutions, goals for the year and even plan out your 'rest' breaks by taking a vacation. Yes, plan your holidays. Even the famous Renaissance artist, Leonardo da Vinci, recommends to take a break. He said "Every now and then go away, have a little relaxation, for when you come back to work and your judgement will be surer. Go some distance away because then the work appears smaller and more of it can be taken in at a glance and a lack of harmony and proportion is more readily seen." 

The list of nationwide holidays was announced by the government as early as July 23, 2014 via Proclamation No. 831. I'm posting the dates today to include all recently announced holidays like for example, the five-day holiday to give way to Pope Francis' visit. 

For this year, there are five 3-day weekends and two 4-day weekends plus next week's 5-day weekend. I'm a fan of Pope Francis so I'll be sticking around next week.

Here's the regular and special holidays for 2015:

January 1 (Thu)  - New Year's Day
January 2 (Fri)  -  Additional special non-working day
January 9 (Fri) - Feast of the Black Nazarene (Manila only) 
January 15, 16 and 19 (Thu-Fri, Mon) -  Special non-working days to give way to the visit of Pope Francis

February 19 (Thu) - Chinese New Year (special non-working day)
February 25 (Wed) - EDSA Revolutionary anniversary (special holiday)

April 2 (Thu) - Maundy Thursday 
April 3 (Fri)  - Good Friday
April 4 (Sat) - Black Saturday
April 9 (Thu) - Araw ng Kagitingan (Day of Valor)

May 1 (Fri) - Labor Day

June 12 (Fri) - Independence Day

August 21 (Fri) - Ninoy Aquino Day
August 31 (Mon) - National Heroes Day

November 1 (Sun) - All Saint's Day
November 30 (Mon) - Bonifacio Day

December 24 (Thu) - Additional special non-working day
December 25 (Fri) - Christmas Day
December 30 (Wed) - Rizal Day
December 31 (Thu) - Last Day of the year

The national holidays for the observance of Eid'l Fitr (Feast of Breaking the Fast or end of Ramadan) and Ediul Adha (Feast of Sacrifce) shall be announced after the approximate dates of the Islamic holidays have been determined with the Islamic calendar (Hijira) or the lunar calendar. So far, the estimated dates are: Eid'l Fitr on July 17 (Fri) and Ediul Adha on September 23 (Wed).

Hong Kong's #OccupyCentral with Love and Peace

at the financial district of Hong Kong

"I must be getting really old,"said the big milestone celebrant Chiqui as we were finishing our drinks and heading out on foot to Central on foot. And she ended "...because my idea of fun is no longer to booze all night but to visit the protesters."

It was almost midnight when we reached Connaught Road and there were hundreds of people, mostly students, camped on the streets. We caught some sleeping on plastic sheets and cardboards, a few were sleeping in hammocks and others were actually set up in tents. There were different sections such as a study area offering tutorials in math and science, a speaker's corner, concert area and even an area to charge mobile phones and tablets.

This is now the scene at the business district in Hong Kong. The protesters call themselves "Occupy Central with Love and Peace," a civil disobedience movement initiated by a law professor at the University of Hong Kong, Benny Tai Yiu-ting.

Early in January 2013, Tai demanded universal suffrage for the 2017 Chief Executive elections; this is, the right to nominate and directly elect the head of the Hong Kong government in reaction to the decision of China to screen candidates.  Apparently, his January 16, 2013 column in the Hong Kong Economic Journal entitled "Civil disobedience is the most powerful weapon" became the blueprint for Occupy Central. He wrote that the best way to protest is to mobilize 10,000 people to block the roads in the financial capital should the government screen candidates.

pro-democracy messages on the 'Lennon Wall"

For this year, Tai initially wanted to stage a three day sit in starting on October 1, but decided to stage it earlier on September 28, when students were pepper-sprayed and arrested.

The movement is now called "umbrella revolution' for the umbrellas used by the students to protect
themselves from police pepper spray.

I'm not sure how how long the protesters will last. As of today, I spotted in the news that the police will start clearing the barricades and tents to open a key road to traffic. I'm sure this won't be another Tianamen Square incident in 1986 and a peaceful solution will come out.

I'm glad that for Chiqui's birthday, we were able to experience this and show our support. We ended up writing a note and posted it on the "Lennon Wall," a colorful patchwork of thousands of sticky notes.

some sleeping on plastic sheets 

spotted one lying in a hammock

protesters camping out

area cordoned off to allow students to study

area set up to charge phones and tablets

Umbrella Man covered with colorful post-it notes with messages of support and solidarity 

Day hike to Mt. Batulao (new trail)

Our destination, the 12th peak 

Brrrrr!!! It was freezing when we arrived at 7:30 am to climb the new trail of Mt. Batulao in Nagsubu, Batangas. Karen and Kebo, who just arrived from Geneva, were garbed in their winter coats while Marge and I were wearing bonnets, scarves and fleece. We didn't expect the cold weather, especially the winds.

The plan was to hike to the 12th peak, to the summit (812 meters in elevation) using the new trail  (left photo) and be back by noon to head to Tagaytay for lunch. That's two hours up and two hours down.

Mt. Batualo is easy to get to. It is located right at the border of Tagaytay and Batangas, about two hours drive from Manila. The jump off point is in Everest Golf and Country Club.


Warning though the climb can be pretty challenging. Most of the trail was made up of loose soil and at times, sandy gravel which made it quite slippery. Towards the summit, the last 2-3 peaks, we were clambering over boulder rocks. In case you don't want your hands to get cut or injured, wear gloves. We were  trying to grab anything that we can hold on to - weeds, plants, protruding rocks, name it -  just to get a grip and help pull us up.

loose sandy trail

clamber over rocks

It was particularly windy that day. We had to stop a few times to find our balance and even duck from the wind. Honestly, if I were a few pounds lighter, I would have been blown away and be rolling down the cliff!

at the summit with Karen, Kebo and Marge

The view from the summit was breathtaking! It offered a 360 degrees view of the whole of Batangas - the rolling green mountains, the blueness off the coast (my favorite dive site) and even Tagaytay Ridge.

After soaking in the view and inhaling the fresh mountain air, we settled by the rocks to enjoy some snacks. We chatted to a family seated next to us - note that they had in tow an 8-year old girl. The family said that they were going to traverse the mountain. This is, climb down using the old path. If the 8-year old can do it, anyone else can.

The downhill was easier but more treacherous because again, it's so slippery that one can easily slide and fall off the cliff.

Kebo rappelling down

Karen negotiating the descent

We got back right on time around 12:30.  The climb was manageable except for that day's windy condition. Marge though was surprised that trail was very slippery. She said that when she climbed last December, she could still get some ground traction. Now, it's all sliding down the trail.

I guess this is due to the number of people climbing Batulao in recent months. That day, there were over a hundred registered climbers. Note that the fee for climbers is P20 for the day and P30 for overnight campers. If you traverese the mountain, that's another P20 fee to pass the other side (or the old trail).

Antonio's Reuben sandwich 

After the climb, we drove to Tagaytay and stopped at  'Breakfast at Antonio's' along the ridge for some recovery food. The place was packed when we got there and had to wait for an hour to get seated.We ordered their signature green salad with balsamic dressing, fresh corned beef as main and salted caramel cheese cake as dessert.

On the way home, we dropped by Ilog Maria Honeybee Farm to shop for

the working bees of Ilog Maria

natural. organic bee products like soap, bee proposlis,  honey lemon vinegar, liniment, leather wax, beeswax candles, mosquito repellent,  etc.  The farm is located at Km. 47 along Aguinaldo Highway in Silang, Cavite. It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 8 am to 5:30 pm.

As a side note,  if you're wondering why it's uncharacteristically cold right now here in the tropics, this strange phenomena is caused by the polar vortex.  According to Dr. John Holdren, President Obama's Science and Technology Adviser, "a [polar vortex] pattern that we can expect to see with increasing frequency as global warming continues... the waviness means that there can be increased larger excursions of cold air southward in the mid latitudes".  I stumbled upon his 2-minute explanation on youtube which I want to share with you:

Nakasendo hike from Tsumago to Magome

Explosion of colors along the Nakasendo trail

Absolutely breathtaking! God was truly on our side when we planned our trip to Japan. As early as May, we - Tonyboy, Jun and Bettina - earmarked the first week of November to visit Baby who made Tokyo her home a few years back and to check out the temples in Kyoto.

The trip became a sort of reunion since it was ten years ago that we (sans Bettina) all climbed Mt. Annapurna in Nepal. Of course being mountaineers, we squeezed in a hike in between to Nakasendo.

The timing was perfect! This is the season when the leaves change colors and when the Japanese flock to the mountains and even to Kyoto to see the leaves, particularly the leaves of maple trees, turn red. The practice is called momijgari, which means hunting of red maple leaves.  So, we were lucky that we confirmed early because when we got there everything was fully booked.

Nakasendo or "path through mountains" is the ancient highway used by the shogunate and the samurais during the 8th century to travel from the imperial capital Kyoto to Edo (now called Tokyo). The road is 533 km long and cuts through the central mountains in the Kiso Valley. There are actually 69 stations or posts along the highway.

Since we allocated two days to hike, we chose the popular ancient post towns of Tsumago and Magome which are the 42nd and 43rd stations.

Our entry point was in Nagiso and exit point  in Nakatsugawa (refer to left map). The train ride took about 3 hours, two hours from Tokyo via shinkansen to Nagoya where we changed trains and took the express train to Nagiso in 55 minutes. Note that we purchased the JR Pass in Manila so we could just hop in and out of any JR line.

One of the trail posts to Tsumago

Nakasendo was surprisingly easy to get to and likewise, the path was easy to hike. At first we were afraid that we might get lost with our DIY (do-it-yourself) plan. And considering that I just recuperated from dengue, I was not too sure that I would be able to hike the distance. Tonyboy was kind enough to load my stuff in his backpack as well as load Bettina's and Jun's too (who had some kind of back problem at the start of the trek).

The trail was well marked with sign posts every kilometer or so and trail maps were readily available at the Tourist Information office at each postal town. The first leg was a 4 km hike to Tsumago and the jump off was behind Nagiso train station. The trail led to rice fields and through the forest which was dotted with maple trees.

bumped into Alfonso  

We got to Tsumago in time for lunch. Being one of the smaller postal towns, the restaurant selection was quite limited and after seeing two or three places, we chose the one where there were lots of people. The menu offered three types of ramen - vegetarian, ebi (shrimp) and a very interesting yam concoction. Expect to shell out as much as Y1,200 per bowl.

While we were having lunch, we were interrupted by a Caucasian-looking fellow who asked if we were pinoys. It turned out that he grew up in Manila and coincidentally enough, is a cousin of a friend of mine and attended the same elementary school as TonyBoy. Alfonso. who is now based in Australia, speaks fluent Japanese and guides tourists, specifically bird watchers and photographers around Japan.

Magome trail

After lunch, we headed out for a bit of sightseeing. We spotted a historical museum and several souvenir shops along the road. We then stopped at the tourist information office to get a trail map to Magome, 8 km away.

The first 5 km of the hike was an easy, gentle ascent to the crest of Magome Pass (2,500 feet in elevation). We passed through forests, waterfalls and stopped to rest at a little hut where we were served matcha (green tea). There were some tourists inside who warned us of the steep climb up to our next stop.

True enough the climb was indeed steep. When we got to the peak, we were greeted with a clear blue sky and a fantastic view of the snow capped Mount Ena. Several photographers were there readying their zoom lenses and waiting for the sun to set.

Mt. Ena behind the marker

After a few snaps, we walked to Magome where we spotted more zoom lens-toting photographers along the road. We found out that the town was celebrating its annual lantern festival that week and thus, there were several tourists

Our accommodation in Tajimaya was a typical ryokan (inn) where the rooms were divided by shoji screen sliding doors, futons laid out on tatami mats and the bath and toilet facilities were shared (separate male and female though). The cost of the room comes with a sumptuous kaiseki dinner and breakfast.

Before dinner, I decided to try out for the very first time the piping-hot onsen inside the female bathroom. It was soothing especially after a long hike under the rain. The onsen is supposed to have healing properties. (Tip: best to soak in the onsen, after dinner, before going to bed).

At dinner, we donned the traditional yukata (kimono) and we were served small dishes in small plates - appetizer, sushi, pickled vegetables, tofu, fish, soup and fruits. The gohan (rice) was served in a wooden bowl.

some sake in our Japanese style room before dipping in the onsen

typical Kaiseki dinner

follow the yellow-dotted paved road

The next day, after breakfast, we set off to Nakatsugawa, 10 km away, to catch the train to Kyoto. The hike would take us to the towns of Shinchaya and Ochiai and finally to Nakatsugawa.

Be warned - this section of Nakasendo is not popular among Western tourists. Most of the hikers we met were Japanese and also the trail signs were in Japanese. We would stop and ask the local residents where to go and they would point to the road and say 'follow the yellow-dotted road.' Thank God Bettina who reads hanzi (Chinese) which is also Kanji (Japanese), could make out the characters and led us to the right direction.

The hike was downhill all the way. The first town Shichaya, 2 km distance, consisted mostly of farmlands. We passed several shrines and  gorges along the way to the next town, Ochiai. As we neared Nakatsugawa, it was getting to look more of a city with more cars and flat roads.

one of the Shinto Temples along Nakasendo

Jun posing infront of one of the gorges

If we continued following the yellow-dotted road, we would probably have ended in the next postal town. There were no signs leading to the train station. Jun decided to randomly knock in one of the homes to ask for directions. Luckily, someone came out to help. He even went out of his way to walk with us to the main road, explaining the tourist spots along the way and finally, directed us to the train station.

boarding the shinkansen

We made it to the train station and had time to get some ramen next door. The trip to Kyoto was much shorter, an hour and a half, 55 minutes to Nagoya and 39 minutes via shinkansen to Kyoto.

Note that the best time to go to Nakasendo is when the season starts to change.  However, be warned. From our experience, this is also when the locals take the time out to witness the changing of the leaves (momijgari) and I'm sure Spring will likewise be busy for the hanami when the cherry blossoms from the sakura tree bloom.

Pinky Amador performs Piaf classics at Sonya's Garden

Oh la la is all I can say about last Saturday night at Sonya's Garden where everything was transformed into Paris for the dinner concert of  BFF Pinky Amador aptly billed as "La Vie en Rose".

Clang Garcia who organized the event said she got inspired  after watching Pinky play the role of the legendary Edith Piaf onstage. She said that  "It was my first time to see Pinky perform during Piaf and I thought it will be nice to bring the romance of French songs to Sonya's Garden."

It was truly La Vie en Rose that night. The venue was bursting with the scent of flowers. And of course, the star of the evening - Pinky - was in her best form. She belted out all my favorite Piaf classics such as Padam, Padam (The sound of his, her Heartbeats), Mon Dieu (My God) , Mon Manege a Moi, (You're my Carousel), C'est a Hambourg (It's Hamburg), La Belle Histoire d'Amour and dueted  A quoi ca sert l'amour (What is Love) with Sandino Martin.

Pinky and Sandino sing A quoi ca sert l'amour

I must admit that when I met Sandino that morning, I thought he was too young to be the balladeer paired with Pinky for the concert. Well I had to eat crow that day because when I heard him rehearsing Autumn Leaves with a very deep voice, I had to ask who it was. He played the role of Theo Sarapo, the last husband of Piaf and thus, perfect for their duet.

After the concert, I actually encouraged him to do more singing stints. He said that currently [at 23 years old] he would like to focus more on acting and to finish his thesis for his Theater Arts degree in UP.

Kat and Clang in their French attire

Cocktails were served at 6pm and dinner which featured Sonya's signature dishes immediately followed at 7pm.

The first course was salad with freshly picked mixed greens from her greenhouse served with assorted add-ins such as nuts, egg whites, fresh fruits, vegetables and fresh fruits. The second course was pasta with different topping choices of fresh sun-dried tomatoes, ratatouille, mushroom, black olives and capers The third course was salmon belly and rosemary roast chicken. The last course was dessert of chocolate cake, banana and langka (jack fruit) turon and sweet camote.

Sonya supports local organic products 

The wine du jour was Vino de Coco, a coconut nectar wine brewed in Tacloban.  The wine uses the fresh sap from the flower of the coconut tree. According to Clang, "It is very rich in minerals and nutrients; even if you finish a bottle, you will not have a hang over the following day." We didn't finish bottle but we didn't experience any hangover the next day.

It was good that we stayed overnight. The next day I picked some fresh greens from the garden - lettuce, arugula, coriander and basil - and threw everything in the blender together with saba, mango, cucumber and ginger and made a green blend juice for breakfast. Then, we  pampered ourselves in the spa with Sonya's signature massage (a combination of tuina, shiatsu and swedish), facial massage using rice and hair spa using fresh aloe vera from the garden.

If you're free this Saturday, October 12. If you're free, do wear your berets and head out to Tagaytay and catch the final show!  For info, call (0917) 533-5140.

Clang Garcia with Sandino

Sonya's signature salad

spacious rooms at Sonya's Bed and Breakfast

full support from Pinky's classmates

with the mom and sisters of Sandino

The grand dame of  Sonay'a Garden signing her book